It's Yohji mainline SS08 ("defeated army")
Was playing with a less good version of the runway fit:

In real life it's darker than that (no runway spotlights) but lighter than in my photo.
No natural lighting means the colours are shit and I had to fix them a in GIMP. The belt is terrible though and the colour of it spoils things.
Will give it a go with Howell when I've better shoes/boots for that, think Iron Rangers would look like poo with those trousers.
Cutway does indeed leave shirt showing:
Looks drastic with this shirt but I actually kinda like the awkwardness of it.
Do you have any miltarial suggestions germ? I want to amp them up but without steering into parody. I think jodphur shaped trousers would be a good start, maybe with a boot tuck.