care-tags.org

for what it's worth: i got to see some of the Calvin Klein Jeans pieces a few days ago (not Collection, but the Jeans stuff that ends up and Nordstrom's, Urban Outfitters, etc.) that Raf worked on and it's not too bad. it appears as if Raf actually will leave a real mark on every facet of the brand. the Jeans stuff usually looks generic and super down market but i thought these pieces had some real design, not revolutionary, but enough to pull Calvin out of a rut.

interesting discussion on sf last few days of the ethics of consumer capitalism, in particular - sample quote from him:

"I think it's fine to think that companies should be more socially responsible. I don't think anyone wants to see socially irresponsible behavior. I'm saying: when people bring this stuff up, in terms of actions, it always goes back to "buy local," "buy from rich countries," "buy less altogether," or "eschew capitalism."

At which point, if you originally cared about the welfare of people in poor countries, you're doing worse for them than if you just bought the thing from the sweatshop. Better working conditions are always better, but no working conditions is worse than bad working conditions. And at the end of the day, all these views seem like they're just about protecting Western jobs. Or ideas about injecting meaning into the lives of rich Western people, who can enjoy all the benefits of post-industrial society (peace, law and order, liberal norms, etc) while everyone else is just trying to sell their cheap, crappy things so they can survive."

he mentions this article: http://web.mit.edu/krugman/www/smokey.html

Whilst reading a very interesting book about cottage gardens I came across a passage that said that the romantic idea of the 19th c English cottage garden vs the terrible slums was not real. Idealistic visions of children playing in cottage gardens did not reflect the fact that the children would much rather have been working in factories than working the land (which they would have been doing if they were living in a cottage). Not to mention cottage thatching is very high maintenance and a harbourer of disease and pests, and cottages are cold.

The scary thing is that because there is a demand for ethical and sustainable production businesses are going to find a way to offer that, or appear to offer that, even if they aren't really. I like to think of fashion marketing as a nuclear arms race which leaves no room for honesty and which no one can step back from.

On the other hand I've heard stories of big brands switching production of suits from one factory to another for a price difference of 50c, ON A SUIT?!! Which is insane.

you have to understand how things work within corporations. wall street analysts care about one thing: profits. if your top line is not growing, as of course it won't be sometimes, then you better be saving on costs. if you can demonstrate that you've cut several million dollars a year from your production,you're at least being a pro-active manager and it might keep your stock from being downgraded. until the next quarter

tl;dr dont become a garm world big shot, stick with your mum

(incidentally yes there are pressures specific to wall street but i would say this managerial mindset is equally in evidence in the public arts institutions or media organisations that i know well. and i mean god help the poor nhs)

Top line didn't grow last year so I locked mum in the garage and forced her to make a fashion collection

Prada AW17

This shows courage

Do it for the culture
They gon' bite like vultures

cmmn swdn with a nice little collection, far cry from that cliche blvck streetwear rubbish they started out with



http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2017/0 ... -D050.html

http://hypebeast.com/2017/1/heron-prest ... collection

off white is bad but at least it contains original ideas every season

this is basically the center of a venn diagram of the worst brands making clothes in 2017

wanted one of those garment dyed poplin maggie howell shirts. it sat in tres b sale for weeks, then went to 50% off + additional 15% off code and i still looked at it and thought 'hmmm'.... not surprisingly it went.

anyone know if the MH website sale go deeper into discount? it's a bit rubbish just now

I'm trying to place what season this dries women's piece is from and struggling if someone could help.

It was bought at Bergdorfs a little less than 2 years ago apparently.

Perhaps it wasn't shown on runway? I don't really know much about how ready to wear translates into retail

yeah not far off MH etc, and i don't have a problem with the writing. it's just interesting to read about a world where a 450 euro blouse is a 'fairly accessible price point' and where someone thinks this fills a gap in the market between zara and presumedly selling your organs for a cropped merino knit

"without making anyone suffer"

you need to hang around that 'charming little boutique on westbourne grove' set more (or maybe not).
kind of interesting how lucrative that sector is though if you know how to play it. the marni coat i was stalking before realising it was just a holiday infatuation hung around in loads of places but in matches sold out almost immediately. i think the reason is that they have b&m shops on westbourne, marylebone high st etc, where the staff are super-professional (my ex lived around the corner, they would greet her by name, text her when things she might like came in etc).
and like i say, teen favourites like OL want 275+ for a shirt these days so..

feels like OL has changed a lot in just a couple of years. i've always preferred the weirder stuff so it's good basic sweats and shirts no longer dominate, but the price jumps just seem weird? i mean if the quality was there i'd have less of an issue but it's not. i don't mind OL trolling when it comes to some stuff but it feels a little awkward now

Having never taken notice of it before, going from the mens fashion weeks straight into this glitzy Couture is such a weird contrast.

i was trying to make a stabiliser strap for my aoku bag and I put a needle straight through my finger. (hang around with me and all you hear is "dwr... ventile... stabiliser strap... crotch gusset...") Is this the plight of the artisan?

@rams yes it is. I probably shouldn't have bought it is just that I'm always looking for some kind of very lightweight bag for summer essentials or day trips on the bike. This probably isn't it. It's a bit too lightweight (can't carry a d lock, can just about carry a water bottle but it's a pain) and really doesn't have much space. If someone offered me near what I paid I would probably sell it but I don't know that anyone would

anybody know that pic of like some deconstructed/smooshed together white sneakers? looked like jordan 4s like stacked on top of each other, maybe with some af1 bits and other shit in there? pretty sure it was some designer shit, looked like a runway backstage kinda thing. feel like it was probably the kinda thing that circulated around tumblr a bunch, but I can't find it anywhere and it's killing me

edit: ya it was the eckhaus latta thanks yall

this vest and jacket combo caught my eye:



look how the jacket snaps onto the back!

bela i bet you could get like 80 percent of msrp for it on sufu right now, especially if you find someone in the uk who wants it so you can ship it cheaply

alternatively just hold on to it until he sells out of the initial run i guess

Park Vienna with goat store model

aw17 McQueen went in

I hate cotton! I've been layering linen + wool the past few days and it feels so much cleaner / warm-but-breathable. Sweat trapped under thick cotton just feels gross in comparison

I asked for measurements for a pair of painted denim from a Russian EBay seller and I got this hand drawn led picture. I'm amazed!