Designers & Their References

[jujumaster]

Henrik Vibskov AW17



Gladiators 1992

[blanket]

[oucho]

pics are from the musee du quai branly, I don't remember but I think the outfits were from Southern China/Nepal

[hharrissonn]

Alex Olson's use of Gay Culture in Bianca has always been interesting to me. I don't really know how he identifies, but how Loud and Proud a lot of the imagery in his stuff is has always kind of given me pause since he really isn't like, active in The Community in a recognizable way. Especially the Paris is Burning/Octavia Saint Laurent stuff, given how exploitative we know that particular piece of media was. The individuals who appeared in the doc were not compensated and basically treated as tragedy porn for voyeuristic filmmakers, and in recent years White Gays have really begun to latch onto this documentary/the scene it portrays in a way that's disingenuous to the people who created the scene/culture. Still a hugely important piece of media, but not without it's problems. This isn't really formatted in a way that makes sense but it's something I've thought about a lot. Side note, I do have a soft spot for the Lust tees because Rush makes a good product.


Bianca Chandon Lust Tee


Rush Original Isobutyl Nitrite


Bianca Chandon Lips Tee


Gran Fury Kiss In Poster, 1988


Bianca Chandon Legendary Tee


Bianca Chandon Legendary Deck


Paris is Burning, featuring Octavia Saint Laurent

[_Organism]

I found this video where he talks about his influences more, it sounds like he's trying to co-opt disco culture and rebel from traditional skateboarding machismo and has been using a shit load of gay culture/imagery to do so, which strikes me as sort of weird? Like I don't want to speculate on his sexuality, but it seems really strange to me to be so dedicated to the theme when he isn't outwardly lgbt. Makes me wonder how the normalization of homophobia in skate culture plays into his choices.

[hharrissonn]

"I've never been to Fire Island" is a very concise way of establishing the brand identity of Bianca. I get what he's trying to do, and I respect that he has a genuine interest in the fashion/music/culture of the disco era and early gay lib movement, but the way he's executing the references is, to put it lightly, haphazard. There's an irreverence to all of this that really undercuts the long history of violence and racism and struggle and loss and depression that is impossible to remove from these themes/this imagery. If you want to engage with the history, and then sell that history, you need to engage with it more carefully and holistically. I don't think the brand should be fixated on the tragic/violent aspects of the culture, or portray them for shock value, but at least acknowledging that people literally died for this imagery to exist would be respectful.


Paradise Garage Neon Sign


Bianca Chandon Paradise Garage Tee


Bianca Chandon (maybe the first season?) Welcome to Fire Island Tee, Back Graphic


Alex Olson wears a Bianca Chandon Fire Island Tee


Fire Island Polaroid by Tom Bianchi, Late 1970's

As far as the normalization of homophobia in skateboarding, I see how this is could be used as a response to that, but it's done in a way that feels more tongue-in-cheek than serious, which I really don't like. Having grown up skateboarding/immersing myself in that scene, I know firsthand how pervasive the homophobia is, and it kept me in the closet much, MUCH longer than I would have liked to have been. If Alex is making other LGBT people more comfortable in the scene, and is inspiring kids to be true to themselves, I think that's great, but I don't think using the culture as essentially a prop/for the sake of being contrarian is all that valuable.

In closing:

[hharrissonn]

"Activists with the Lesbian Avengers, seemingly at the first New York Dyke March, June 1993. Via the Lesbian Avengers website:

Founded in 1992, the Lesbian Avengers were a direct action group focused on lesbian visibility and survival. Too impatient for lobbying or letter-writing, these fire-eating secretaries, students, cab drivers, journalists, artists and teachers joined together to create fabulous street actions that inserted lesbians into public life, forced political change, and redefined dykes as the coolest, most ferocious, girls on the block.

Photo by Carolina Kroon."




Supreme SS13 Fuck Denim Jacket & Tote

[hharrissonn]

Resurrecting this thread because it’s my favorite, someone post something

[hharrissonn]

Junya Watanabe Menswear SS19




Eric Carle, The Very Hungry Caterpillar

[ivanmuh]

I never saw the movie but from the clips they had the sound design seems like what you would expect. You know, inspired by djs, i put in bass bombs and the res following the pitch...blah.. But really, these guys want their jobs and will do anything to keep fresh blood out. They all looked to be in their forties.

Veqtor, are you saying you could still hear that whining? They cleaned it all up supposedly.

[BeJimmieBOB]

I think Id have to go with Costume National. I like the general styling and theyve certainly put out some great stuff over the years, but theres just too often something off about the execution of their pieces. Either the fabric is just plain wrong some of their techno fabrics especially just plain suck, or the color, or some detail that just ruins the piece. The fit too, can be really unpredictable. I picked up some awesome looking boots a few years back, but of course, it turned out to have tons of quality issues. But still, I have a fair amount of picked over? CN pieces in my wardrobe, thanks to the Yoox sample sales.

[hharrissonn]

Junya Watanabe Man x Nike LDV (Daybreak)


Junya Watanabe Man x Nike Waffle Racer


Sacai X Nike LD Waffle

Very cute callbacks, love it. I ended up getting the white/grey pair.

[hharrissonn]

Child of God, Cormack McCarthy, 1st Edition, 1973

Child of Hell Sweater, Supreme, Fall 2015

[hharrissonn]

Apologize for mobile YouTube video screenshot photo quality.



D&G Mirror Detail Embroidered Mesh Dress w/ Slip, 1990's
Source Video:


Craig Green Mirror Detail Embroidered Pants, Spring Summer 2020

[fncbear]

You have nothing to apologize for. Have a great day.