check out my damn nudies

[ramdomthought]

anti-fit is the only good fit though

[hmwut]

ONI 512's came in today.













really looking forward to breaking these in.

[smiles]

Ooh those are nice. I like the crinkly denim.

[can-]

who invented / started raw denim?

I always attributed the modern form of raw denim (the modern form
of denim) to APC. from there things become really apparent (Dior and brands like nudie/acne bringing us to the glut of brands today like n+f//3sixteen)

I wasn't copping jawnz in 06 tho so there's a lot of speculation. in NYC at least, NdG was fast on APC/dior's heels with high quality, Japan made denims. I omit most Japanese brands (except evisu) because I think the western market was exposed first to brands like APC before the repro obsession fetish took hold. in any case they are (mostly) separate demographics.

was helmut lang an early player? I often see a legacy of lang -> APC -> Dior -> (SLP) described but I don't know if helmut Lang was making raw jeans, or selvage jeans or using Japanese fabrics and these three touch points are really what define modern denim to me, along w. a fairly low rise (which of course Lang pioneered)

[starfox64]

i first heard about apc in i think 2007 from gq/esquire. i remember specifically going to the store in nyc to get ns when i was living in bk summer of 08. that being said, one of my friends introduced me to nudie in 2006 and thats where i bought my first raws, though i ordered them from switzerland or something because it was cheaper than any american stockists.

[Bobbin.Threadbare]

Helmut was using selvage raw jeans way before any of this, plus he was looking at archival denim for fits and styling. A jacket of his that I had was made in the late 90's and had a Levis Type I style -- though he left out the pleating and generally cleaned it up.

Raw denim has been around since the start, it just wasn't a 'thing'. Different washes have just trended over time and raw denim is finally seeing a come back. This time is the first time it's really a 'trend', as historically it would have just been raw because that's how denim is made. I feel it's a reaction to 90's-00's over washed/worn looking jeans which no longer fit with the modern silhouette/scheme.

The 'raw denim' community, however, is probably a child of horizontal evolution of the repro market in Japan and the scandinavian look/market here in the west.

[bels]

what is horizontal evolution?

[Bobbin.Threadbare]

I think I first got this through a comic book (but I'm sure I looked it up). Horizontal evolution is when two organisms or groups of organisms who share a common ancestor but are otherwise different (geogrphically, usually), evolve a gene or behaviour at the same time. So for example if a monkey in Africa picks up a tool and a seperate breed develop the same way in India at the same time, this is horizontal evolution.

So, like, totally, like you know, how Japanese brands and, like, Scandy brands both, like started hyping raw denim.

[JCM]

[sknss]

[ramseames]

MIJ kuroki mills Raws from a brand here in van. 2 points of interest: J shape cut for what is otherwise a "normal" jean (not weird/artisanal) and some sort of hydrophobic coating that's like waxing but without the sheen/feel.

If it wasn't a kickstarter I'd buy a pair but fuck waiting 3+ months to find out if they're worth the $$$.

[can-]

I'm highly skeptical of jeans with any kind of dwr appliqué. the way denim is woven and how it wears guarantees that most weather resistant finishes won't work very well and will degrade quickly

[sknss]

waterproofing jeans sounds like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist

[maj]

they say fades reflect your lifestyle, now i have a visual indicator that i lay in bed all day



i only have whiskers/fading on one side.

[bels]

Can't find UB 204 tapered cut black raws in stock anywhere so I think in going to shelve the idea of wearing and washing black raws all winter until they become soft and grey and ready for summer

[starfox64]

whats the price difference between those and acne or apc?

[thug]

starfox64: Like $100

[bels]

Do acne do black raws?

[starfox64]

isnt that the whole point of ace/max/hex cash or whatever?

[bels]

Is the cash wash raw? It's not selvedge (know the two aren't necessarily the same thing)

[ramseames]

they're not washed i don't think. they're black weft though so I dunno how they'd fade anyway. not like a super stiff denim though, the spandex makes them pretty comfy right off the bat.

[deadkitty]

cash are overdyed and coated so they wont really fade

[can-]

my max cash didn't come overdyed or coated and they fade a ton (quite pleasantly) every wash

[deadkitty]

maybe it changes from season to season. I remember talking to the dude at Barney's in sf in april and he said they were coated and iirc the acne website said they were overdyed last year.

[starfox64]

found my old uniqlo selvage jeans (c. 2008). made in china not japan though. when i bought these they were the tightest pants i had ever owned.

[deadkitty]

just got apc petit new standards in the mail. what a fantastic cut. idk why anyone would even buy petit standards anymore unless they're a girl or something

[starfox64]

[deadkitty]

Tproc:

[bels]

I think we can all agree the denim fit o meter is very palpably swinging away from slim/skinny fit. Get out that slim straight/regular leg denim, friends. Increase your ideal leg opening by 1/2 an inch at least.

Actually I think there's still space for the 7 inch leg opening but it has to be acheived by a strong taper near the end rather than drainpipe skinniness all the way down.

[RycePooding]

I remember when I thought my New Standards were way too baggy. Now I'm looking for parachute jeans.