Patrik Ervell S/S14

[can-]

[germinal]

thanks for taking the iniative

It's not a hugely compelling collection, but there's a lot i like here, probably because i grew up near the sea. The logo/numerals print seems like a grab at HBA/kenzo territory, which is a little weird. Wish i could read whatever's written on those smaller tags. i'm interested in those zip front tops, they seem like they'd be fun to style. i like that white suit too, and the belts, shame they never seem to make it into production.

btw i don't think rep / quick reply is working here

[Syeknom]

Follow up on your sea comment germ, what bits sing a sea shanty to you?

[germinal]

well, the prints, for one.

and those mockneck tops say "wetsuit" to me; the shorts are basically boardshorts in terms of fit; that jacket in the third look is something straight out of, i dunno, a Ralph Lauren yachting photoshoot; there's a couple of fleeces in there with the anorak-style pocket at the front, plus the sandals etc. those plastic buckle belts and the bright red and blue suits at the end also seem, to me, like a Hugo Boss ad or something

[can-]

if you look at the third look for too long his face starts to look like it was photoshopped on


i love that white belted jacket thing tho

[germinal]

yeah same, and the black/navy one further down


with the ma-1 and the leather bomber and the hats he has limply pandered to trends i think. and the baggier trousers and the hidden placket shirts. ticking boxes. he can do better than that

[hirokinakamura]

Now that I've seen it up on the website and have had a chance to go through each piece, I have to say this is very weak for ervell. Especially relative to S/S 2013, which was amazing.

The ocean print is interesting but like germ said, the rubberised cotton aviator jacket is the same shit he's released several times over the year that seems to be a "signature" ervell piece that all of the fanboys will buy. I really dislike the MMXIV graphic. It's not interesting in anyway. I would rather he just plaster his name on the damn thing. Also ben and I were talking about this, prices have definitely gone up significantly and its rather disheartening because none of the stuff I see is worth it at retail. Outerwear in particular seems very weak this season, which is also disappointing because outerwear is almost always ervell's strongest point. And what's up with the all the t-shirts? C'mon patrik you're better than this.

Redeeming pieces of S/S 14:

silk mid-century shirt



Sakura blossom pattern is gorgeous and I can only imagine how nice this shirt feels irl. Probably one of only two pieces I would pay retail for.

Pattern close-up



Baseball shirt



Idk I just really like this. Very athletic and it seems to have a substantial weight/thickness to the fabric. Really fits the kind of 50s vintage jizz I get from ervell traditionally. Ivory/black contrast is really nice. If this makes it to sale I will buy it.

Track pants



Track pants are cool. "Refined" track pants are a bit trendy, but I like ervell's take on them. Would probably buy Christopher Shannon track pants over these because British (and the history/connotation therein).

Medium stonewashed selvedge denim



The perfect washed denim imo. I remember reading a GQ thing where they had ervell list 10 things he can't live without, one of the things was a pair of vintage stonewashed levis 501s. He would buy old pairs of 501s from the 80s and 90s (childhood nostalgia) and would have them tapered to update them. I suppose this is his attempt to recreate that.

Coach jacket



Satin nylon fabric is gorgeous. Cape detailing on the back is really cool. Only interesting piece of outerwear this season imo.

Overall a very weak season. Interesting pieces but just not as consistently on point throughout as the past couple seasons have been.

Also Patrik, when the fuck are you going to let me buy these shoe collabs you do with Aldo.

[germinal]

That can't be everything though right? That was only the first order..? i'll be annoyed if the mocknecks, the belted jacket and the iridescent suit don't go into production, because what's the point in designing stuff like that for the show if you don't even have the courage to stock them on your own website? It's not like he's designing unwearable showpieces

Opening Ceremony has stocked the Aldo collaboration the last few seasons.

[hirokinakamura]

Yeah only the first order. We'll see more. You'll get several more colours/variations of shirting/pants/jackets. We'll see the irridescent suit and the mocknecks, but I'm not sure we'll see the belted jacket. I've seen similar belted jackets from earlier seasons that were runway-only pieces at the sample sales.

Also btw the mocknecks remind you of wetsuits so much because thats the point. If you look on the website at the collection they're named as "zip-up drysuit".

Looking through the listed items on the collection, I'd say these are the pieces we'll get as the seasons go on:

ma-1 bomber in the ivory sailcloth and black rubberised cotton
oversized shirt in ivory sailcloth
zip-up drysuit in all variations
mid-century shirt in navy silk
double-breasted blazer
track pants in ivory wool suiting
navy cotton-silk unstructured suiting
ivory cotton-silk sailcloth unstructured suiting
volume pants in several variations
taped seam blazer
crew blazers
rubberised cotton bucket hat

I want to have hope but don't hold your breath for the sailing coat.

[deadkitty]

I really hope the indigo sakura print is put up

[can-]

just spoke with the shop, this jawn did not make it to production or retail



cmon son.

[hirokinakamura]

I FUCKING TOLD YOU SO