Thom Browne Men's S/S15

[can-]

[bels]

Interesting to note that the man himself wears white trainer liners with black brogues. I always go for black.

Collection makes me think of Chelsea Manning

[thomaspaine]

I believe it's tron inspired.

[thomaspaine]

Uhh are we thinking of different ?

[bels]

Nah that's the one.

[timothynguyen]

Tin man / toy solider is the jizz I got from this show.

I think the only thing I would wear is the military cap the models sitting down are wearing.

[can-]

collection is obvo anime / DBZ themed:

[can-]

I came to this collection expecting to be completely disappointed / bored and already prepared to post something blithe in the GD thread about it. thom's 'theater for fashion' shtick has gotten dangerously close to contrived and dull in the last 2 years, probably truer for his women's than the men's, and i had really low expectations for this show. i was very surprised and pleased with this collection.

the muscle tailoring is visually brilliant and compelling and really speaks to the strength of whatever crack tailors he has in his atelier. thom's runway production has always been very high, especially in an industry where designers routinely send underengineered, unwearable garms down the runway and then bin or closet them immediately. it's in stark contrast to a lot of ny designers (hi ckc, dkny) where you know a sorry group of freelancers are working up to the minute to put out a show-- often good shows-- but with thom's runway you always know the work is there and the hours are there. i can't think of a better example than the muscle inlays here, it's a new high for TB's already-excellent craft. it puts a couple things in new light for me-- i am now re appreciating the grosgrain in its technical/tailored capacity, particularly SS14 at Ecole Militaire. second, i have always felt a disconnect or cheapness in the way thom's runway has no relation to his RTW collections, but now i am thinking that if dude's production team can do this kind of work, they can probably tailor a damn suit.

thom continues to operate outside of the traditional discourse of fashion which is not a pro or a con. i don't find it a challenge or a copout. he's come very close to Fashion Clown but i think this is a strong testament and reinforcement of his talent and "vision" (such a corny word)