UNDERCOVER Women SS2015

[station]

After sitting around tonight, I've realized that this is one of my favorite shows ever. There's something about the whole thing (and Jun's runway shows in general) that I really enjoy. To make sure you don't miss out on it, I've compiled as much as I can about the show so you too can experience it! The best thing to do is just sit down for 16 minutes and watch the show here:


I really enjoyed the soundtrack. It did a really good job of setting and dividing the mood of the show. So I compiled the list of songs here:
1: Don't sit under the apple tree (With Anyone Else But Me) - Madisen Beaty
2: Minim (Version) - Dustin O'Halloran & Victor Axelrod
3: All My Colours - Nouvelle Vague
4: Draw on sweet night - John Wilbye
At this point, the soundtrack becomes solo piano (solo piano is my biggest weakness), but as far as I'm aware, they're all piano renditions of classical orchestral pieces. I couldn't figure out what they all were or how many there were since they are molded together. But, I do know they're not all Tchaikovsky's Swan Lake Suite.
5.0: ???? (I'll figure this out sooner or later) (but if you know, let me know)
5.5: Swan Lake Suite (Op.20 Part 1 - Scene ) - Tchaikovsky
6: Black Swan - Tori Amos

The show was really long( 51 looks). So, I've divided them based on each scene(song) under each spoiler. I've also added a tag to what I see them relating to.

Childhood Innocence(3)
Don't sit under the apple tree


Lost Childhood(9)
Minim (Version)


Teen(8)
All My Colors


Refinement Of a Woman(10)
Draw on sweet night


A Professional(4)
????


A Leap(4)
??? + Swan Lake Suite (Op.20 Part 1 - Scene )


Funeral(14)
Black Swan



Benyo's thoughts:
-The show has a lot of references to the movie Black Swan(2010). First off, the makeup and the feathers in the show are pretty obvious giveaways. Also, the plot of the movie revolves around a production of Tchaikovsky's Swan Lake which is probably why he makes it into the soundtrack. Finally, Black Swan is the name of the final song and the name of the movie. BUT, the two aren't related as far as I'm aware. (Its actually a B-side from her album Under the Pink from 1994 (recorded in Taos, NM (benyo's homestate!!!!))).

- To me personally, the show is mainly the story of a girl with references to Black Swan and Swan Lake. I see it was a girl who has an innocent childhood in the first song and then is pushed through and has a lost childhood (song 2). In the first part there are black wings which reference black swan and in the second part, there are tutus which reference the ballet parts.
-The third song is much more "angsty" then anything else in the show, so I think this is the woman as a teenager. There also seems to be a sexualization and rebellion in this scene as a lot lot of the models wear shear clothing in it and some of the prints have skulls.
-After that, we move back to much cleaner music. Here, the clothes are cut cleaner in my opinion. Also, the skull prints have been replaced by prints of The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch(classical art vs skulls). I'd guess that there is some reason why he chose this over other paintings, but I'm not sure.
- After that, the clothes transition something that reminds me of a refined working woman using purples and slightly off whites.
- Then, the clothing gets very weird and cool. The music also picks up pace and we hit the climax of the show's story. There is a crash before everything goes black. I think that this is something to do with the death of the woman that we've been following. This is emphasized by the bells that ring during the darkness and the birds/insects which make me feel like we're at a cemetery.
-Finally we hit what seems to be an epilogue. All the clothes are black, like the models are at a funeral. They also have wings which were in the first 3 fits. Its some sort of a full circle.

- I love fits 35-38. The way the double rider jackets pair with the rest of the outfits + the colors is so good. So good.

GJ Jun.
p.s: do mens runway shows. I would be so happy
p.p.s. thank YOU for reading all this!!

[exprof]

Best pieces were the iPad jackets but I'm a sucker for ~runway tech~

Also Carven did Bosch prints in fw12, and while I like this weirdness I can't help but feel there would have been a more fitting painting to use. Thoughts ?

[camping jazz]

i'm always impressed with the way jun is able to realize collections and shows that feel so "in their own world". this one feels like some sort of fairytale come to life, while the pieces remain quite grounded and wearable. i'm no womenswear expert -- or close to it -- but this is a lovely show to appreciate from 10,000 feet.