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the hotpants made me laugh

so how about that name change

Galliano's first Margiela show and a surreptitious rebranding of the label, dropping the Martin.

After the show models came out in unfinished calico toiles, with instructions and handwritten notes stuck on - not up on style.com sadly.







I wasn't sure what to make of the show on first glance but having had a little while to think about it and revisit it I'm really enamoured by it. Some of these looks are simply beautiful and stunning - the black coat, the final dress, the two looks below:



Just pure elegance.

The deconstructivist heritage of Margiela is clearly here to stay and played with really well. The first look being a camel suede mannequin-ish top seems like a real statement, and the toy car "stitching" on it are wickedly fun. The use of crass PVC and lacquered shells alongside fine gold, velvet and brocade and is really full-on. A mix of elegant gowns/dresses and trashy dancer gear. A lot of incongruent fun. I think it's made clear that he's keen to find a way to express himself within the framework and established concepts of Margiela, though this collection is heavy on the referential and perhaps doesn't bring very much new or dramatic to the table yet. That said, compare the drama, grace and humour of this show with the dreariness of (I did like a lot about but more for the process and intricacy than form or statement).

really lovely collection!

my first thought is that, unsurprisingly, there is a lot more galliano than margiela in this collection and that some margiela touch points feel obligatory or like concessions-- the color scheme, the denim, that paneled shearling vest. but considering the house has done a fairly poor job trying to reproduce the 'glory years' i'm instead excited to see where mr galliano might take the brand.

look 5 is absolutely stunning and i like the brief pause of sanity near the end beginning with the lbd and ending with the red evening gown/tunics.

i'm leaning on the side of liking it, mostly because of some serious high water marks, but look 11 was bullshit.

Glad someone posted this because I was about to do all the work but now I don't have to! thx Syeknom


here's a link to some of the better shots of the all-white looks as well as a video, they walked in reverse so most official photos have a rear view, which is highly frustrating and amusing

overall, i thought it was incredibly beautiful and equally as impressive. There was a good balance of play and drama, construction and deconstruction, humor and just flat out jokes (the hot pants) as well as several keystones of Margiela, Galliano, and their overlap. I am absolutely dying to see some of them up close, especially that jewel encrusted arm cast(?), not sure what's going on there but I love it. I'm happy that this wasn't a Galliano revenge nightmare, it seems he using Margiela as a vessel for his talent rather than a platform to get his name back in the spotlight in his unique, ostentatious way. I expected he would do a bow, but I liked that it was a very humble one in the house's white coat. Very, very pleased with the result and the happy marriage.

This breathes a lot of fresh air into the couture line that was missing for s/s14 imho. I'd love to see a full video of the show (especially for look 15). If anyone knows of a good one, post it plz.

Not really comfortable with a designer coming out at the end of a Margiela show tbh. Just feels wrong in some way.