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I'm not familiar with his past shows at all (only bits and pieces of discussion we've had about him on here re: androgyny) so I don't know how this stacks up but it's a really exciting collection. Amazing shapes (he's famous for column-like andro shapes if I remember?) and form. Especially amazed by those trouser cuts combined with the ultra high shoes - love how well it works here given my own fancies for thick soles and cropped straight-leg trou. Will take encouragement to push that further.

How amazing is these??



Get kinda a Raf-ish feel from this collection with some of the colours/prints as well as with what world raf SS14 exists in. Not the same end-game but similar tools. Any thoughts on that germ?

The jumper in that third picture is great, especially in this colour:

he's been mining this seam - when does womenswear become menswear? when does it become cross-dressing? when is it androgyny? - for several seasons now.

it's taken him a while but he's now probably the most interesting menswear designer showing in london. at least he's who i look forward to most. i'm particularly interested in how each look has a twin, or a triplet. he did that last season as well. i wonder what the thinking behind that is. an expression of fragmentation? or just a way to show all the colourways, who knows.

yeah definitely ties in with raf aw13. better executed too.



he probably owes more to cdg in the end tho. but who doesn't?

CDG is a very obvious touching point but not especially worth the discussion really - like you say that's nothing new. You picked just the fits I had in mind for the Raf-ish stuff.

Really interesting about the twins/triplet models - that's quite an exciting twist.