Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme F/W14

[Syeknom]

[Syeknom]

Wow, one of the most polarised shows so far. Yohji's done prints and colours before (see: ) but this is a really radical departure from anything he's done before that I know of.

First third is nothing short of incredible - out of this world good. The prints are rich and detailed, subtle and expressive. The colours are amazing. The cuts are less voluminous than usual but still well rooted in his own world and from the pictures it seems like they have a lot of movement to them.

Then the skull prints start. Argh. So bad. Word on styleforum is that there's a new subline coming out called GOTHIC that these are a part of. Not a fan at all - some of the pieces feel tacky and even a bit fast-fashion. The prints work when not taking centre stage and there are some interesting pieces mixed in but on the whole very disappointing. Quite liked the snake prints.

The final third regains some ground and has some standout looks but also goes batshit insane for no apparent reason.

First third got me so pumped and it's a pity that didn't follow on, at least for me. That said the looks that work are some of the more exciting things I've seen of this season.

germinal we were chatting in DSM about zippers up on everything and that's certainly present here - what do you reckon to them? The red overcoat reminds me a bit of that Yang Li and on some pieces there are beautiful zippers opening across the midriff or sleeves that are really cool.

[Syeknom]

[BobbyZamora]

I think this one is my favorite of the bunch:



The runner up would have to be this:



Overall though, this is a really great collection. The skull prints are a little iffy though, I will admit.

[Syeknom]

[soundclip989]

Who's gonna be the first to cop a yohji top hat?

[Capt]

Anyone else getting a feeling that yohji is coming to terms with getting older and eventually dying? The last season was all about the passage of time and sunsets with the model's hair all starting to grey over the course of the show. This season all the zipper pulls are coffins and skull prints abound. Not to mention skulls that happen to resemble himself.

I wonder if the next season will be something about the future for him?

[bels]

Did a quick Google. Yohji, Rei, Issey, Jill are all 70.

[rublev]

Damn @ dem zippers...

[teck]

i stay up late thinking what will fashion be like once Rei, Yohji, etc are gone. Im lucky to be here to get at least this much of their careers