Dries Van Noten Men's F/W14

[germinal]

[Syeknom]

Thanks for posting this one was going to do it tonight

Not sure how I feel about it yet - definitely underwhelmed compared to the last few killer seasons but I think it merits a closer and slower look.

[germinal]

really reminds me of his Clockwork Orange collection. i've never loved tiedye so this was never going to tick all the boxes for me but i love the combination of the frilly gaudy baroque with the sleek military gear and panelled aviator trousers, it's really evocative and the best looks here are the ones that balance that perfectly, strips of webbing trailing everywhere. the finale was wild too, love the idea of gangs facing off in underground car parks

[Syeknom]

Oh wow, those last few gang shots I hadn't seen and they add a lot of context actually. Colours look amazing en masse.

Thought you'd be pretty into this show germ - shapes and design choices are right up your alley.

Certainly evocative and surprisingly understated given the elements at play here - gaudy colours, massive fur, ruffled shirts and military gear shouldn't normally be a quiet whisper or evocative. It's very interesting how he brought that about.

Patterns aren't very strong this season but the panelling and detail are very rich and done up with the same eye.

Trousers and shoes are a stand-out for me - especially that third group shot at the end look at those three in front.

Outerwear not lighting my consumerist fires but those cut-away bombers are ace conceptually. The few overcoats are really nice too.

I have some issue with the liberal use of fur in this show. It plays into the, as you say, frilly gaudy baroque atmosphere but almost too obviously? Dries is at his best imo when masulinising the feminine or vice versa but the combination of military/sports gear and lux pink fur almost seems too obvious/corny. The flower prints from SS14 are much more subtle, interesting and allow that gender contrast to be played out more easily in real life but we're not going to see many dudes sporting the big fur of this season with military get-up. Also feels like lux for lux's sake which I guess makes sense on a business level and Belgians certainly like Dries as a "lux" brand but I prefer him when his wearable and relatable. Feel like his best stuff avoids the conversation of money rather than confronting us with it. Maybe i'm coming at this from the wrong angle.

[Syeknom]

[rublev]

First i kinda hated it... then i quite liked it.... then i LOVED IT.... now i'm not sure.

Getting Fifth Element vibes from the whole thing???? Or at least futuristic turf war scenarios etc (agree about the gang jizz^^^)

I'm not sure about the majority of the prints but the panelling is very cool. The blues and pinks do nothing for me but i love some of latter two colour groupings. Some of the green / dark purple combos work so well. Would cop that acid'y yellow knit.

Will come back for another look.

[Syeknom]

[Syeknom]