Dries Van Noten Men's S/S15

[can-]

[bels]

Dunno if it's syeknom's fault but I'm coming round to Driez.

The man himself looks absolutely awful though I have to say. Normcore to the max.

[germinal]

this is gorgeous, but loses its way with the bright red pieces somewhat. also i can't help but be jarred out of this beautiful world he's created when i see a pretty tame/commercial bomber jacket or skinny sweatpants (although these fit the theme so get a pass) on the runway

some details




printed houndstooth, buttonless shirt




sexy knit cummerbunds



ballerina prints

[popcorn]

I'm very behind the lot of this, three things though for conversation -

Is there an easily distinguishable meaning for the "71" prints?

Is there an easily distinguishable meaning for the huge gothic letter "R" printed on tops and shorts?

And finally, I really don't know what this top was?



I'm assuming the purpose of this model is just to show the audience how he places the ballerina print on things..? Because it looks like those straps are attaching it to him? Is this a... scarf? I really want more angles just to wrap my head around this.

[germinal]

the R is for Rudolf Nureyev http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolf_Nureyev

the harness was inspired by a ballet costume apparently
a better view:


dunno about the 71

[Syeknom]

Really exciting collection though a pretty strong departure from his work over the last few years. Departure is the wrong word, sidestep might be more accurate. The full-on prints of the last few years are toned right down, less present than before and instead we get a much clearer focus on cut, form and how the clothing communicates with the body. The exciting part is how he's using these different tools to carry on the same conversation as before - the blend of masculine sexual power and delicate feminine grace, the luxurious and decadent (the toned-down gold silks and high-sheen fabrics are a marvel), the references to the past etc (especially those fantastic harnesses). The collection is very sensual and oozing with a quiet yet powerful celebration of the male form without being crass or aggressive. The luxurious elements are a natural follow-on from AW14 only less full-on and confrontational. And the silky pajama-style clothing follows from AW13 and a little from SS14 as well. All recognisably Dries while doing something very new.

One of my favourite things about the show itself is tragically missing in the style.com photos - nowfashion's were taken from an angle where rows of metallic things/lights(?) on the ceiling gave the illusion of industrial-looking angel's wings to each look.



Really felt like it added a beautiful flourish - vintage, sparse, quite harsh industrial features contributing something delicate and graceful in the right context. A fitting metaphor for the collection.

Agree with germinal that the harsh red was a misstep - didn't like that section when watching the show live. Especially when he had such a beautiful burgundy featured later that worked so much more powerfully.

Standouts for me: the tailored pieces (especially the relaxed, seductive double breasted jackets), the flowing robe-coats and the high-wasted trousers + open shirts looks.