by can- » Wed Apr 16, 2014 3:18 pm
raf simons is probably the most avant garde designer currently working in the mainstream fashion world, one for his ability to stay ahead of trends, often decades at a time (whether he predicts or determines the direction of fashion is hard to say and it might not matter) and two because most of his work is (IMO) brilliant commentary and often criticism of the current aesthetic, philosophical and economic attitudes of the industry at most given times.
this obviously isn't a very novel thought, but to me raf lives in the same world of visionary genius and execution as old Lang, Margiela and Kawakubo where collections always have really strong internal languages, and at the same time have very clever or subversive commentary about the rest of the (runway) fashion world.
rick owens is obviously a genius designer, but the scope of his design (to make really beautiful or ugly things) isn't of the same stature. labeling the Japanese aesthetic that relies on mostly black colors, light cotton jersey, modal and silk fabrics to layer, and a lot of washed leather as 'avant garde' is totally off base, and I think comes from a place where people still think fitted oxfords and workboots denote fashion. the shuitsang (sp?) aesthetic is very beautiful and masterfully executed but also now right in the mainstream of a certain demographic, and also you have as many people doing it as there are groups printing hashtags on t shirts.
I think older bless is the definitive 'anti fashion fashion' and deserves huge credit. but the market is now surfeit with fans and imitators (no disrespect to the bless ladies because they have and still make exactly what they want to make) so I don't know, is it avant garde anymore now that everyone has caught up? it's very hard to be avant garde anymore with the easy and immediate dissemination of information thanks to the internet.