RU a chivster? #GTCW [no one knows I'm gay]

[germinal]

for:
givenchy
shaun samson
chris shannon
og versace
hba
astrid anderson
nasir mazhar
maybe wvb and wilhelm
other people i've forgotten

[germinal]

[smiles]

yo i got u

martine rose


liam hodges


meadham kirchhoff (looks to be styled by matthew josephs)


kit neale


joseph turvey


matthew josephs (the stylist)


new power studio


alex mattson


william richard green

[smiles]

some fun/interesting things about this(off the top of my head).

All of these designers are based in London, most of them are british. They all went to RCA or CSM (maybe LCF too). So it's certainly a look that the schools are pushing in a big way. I really wonder what this years MA fashion portfolios are like. There's been about six (???) seasons of this stuff and I doubt CSM and RCA wanna get pegged (heh) as the gay thug school. 'Course CSM in particular is all about anti-establishment.

It's quite easy to be a bit derivative in this style. Just slap some crazy materials on oversized clothes and your're good to go. Obvious top tier people are astrid, nasir, and shaun, they're getting the most international press. Kit Neale and Alex Mattson are a bit too deritivative for me. You can see where mattson is getting a lot of his look (shaun samson) and Kit neale is kind of crazy for the sake of it. Overall though, everyone is pretty talented, and it's clearly a lot of fun

for me, I like it because its 'anti-establishment' both in terms of fashionablity and also in terms of gender/sexuality. By taking cues from hypermasculine culture and beautifying them they manage to subvert the 'hard' edge to it and make it sensual (but still masculine). These designers make some of the sexiest clothes for men I can think of. Also, the cultures they draw from (sports, cholos, chavs, etc) tend to be pretty homophobic so its nice (i guess) that they can deconstruct it.

I like it as well because it makes me feel more masculine and gives me the opportunity to wear stuff i'm not 'supposed' to. stuff like timbs, jerseys, baggy pants and shorts. I encourage anyone who gets the chance to try on some stuff from shaun samson or nasir or whoever. I feel 'cooler' but also i feel like i'm fitting in with the people that this look (and I) idolize. There could be an element of the gay designers expressing both aspects of their personality. Someone like nasir especially. Making them into hi fashion really allows them to be appreciated by a wider audience. Is it appropriation? maybe. but 1. it's not really like those groups they are drawing from have any soft of collective heritage and 2. it's celebratory.


need to collect my thoughts better.

[can-]

where's the fellow teen ГОША fit in here

where does opening ceremony fit in? how did it become the home away from home for international fruteswag?

[smiles]

http://www.thefader.com/2013/02/19/lond ... brilliant/

http://www.thefader.com/2013/02/21/inte ... un-samson/

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/art ... -kirchhoff

http://www.thefader.com/2013/02/20/inte ... -mattsson/

http://bullettmedia.com/article/matthew-josephs/

matthew josephs for i-D mag issue no. 320 (the just kids issue)

[germinal]

yeah gosha has a place in this thread

he's kind of different from the london scene in that he's celebrating/sexualising the pubescent/androgynous male form, rather than the hyper masculine. but he is incorporating (presumably i dunno) homophobic cultures (russia; sk8boarding) for his work

when i was last in dsm this 50 y/o megarich middle eastern guy was trying on a shaun samson shirt

[smiles]

Yeah what germ said. He's definitely all about the younger boys. skinny skater boys. I understand as it as a different interpretation of the subversion of 'hard' masculinity. The difference maybe is that Gosha is really involved in the whole russian skate/gay(?) scene as opposed to people like shaun samson who are using cholos or whatever as flintstone.

[sknss]

[germinal]

@ben i don't know much about OC... i suspect that they're simply on-the-ball when it comes to emerging trends and new designers so they happened to be one of the first stockists for a lot of labels

__________



some gosha interviews:

http://www.marceloburlonblog.com/?p=415
http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/ ... ubchinskiy
http://theendofbeing.com/2010/07/16/gos ... h-couture/
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/art ... skiy-a-w12
http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=6738

[hooplah]

i love gosha

[Bobbin.Threadbare]

http://www.meatclothing.co.uk/

[germinal]

more like gay-venchy amirite har har

[smiles]

rob evans is the definitive model for the gay thug club designers.



http://ftape.com/media/?p=10502

what does the gay thug club goer listen to? Zebra Katz obviously



azealia banks

[germinal]

matthew josephs for wonderland mag

[can-]

[smiles]

kit neale, katie eary, sibling. waaat

wild style by Joyrich. Official LA branch for Gay Club Thugs inc.






official gay thug pose

[smiles]

who can read russian? Gosha's 2008 collection 'evil empire'

[hirokinakamura]

I'm p sure ben can read Russian

[germinal]

[whinefields]

[can-]

[smiles]

Guy with the sunglasses is one of the joyrich people I believe.

[germinal]

gosha fw14

[sknss]

the gosha man is so thug he is not allowed to be more than 10m away from a police station

[smiles]

Tried on these shorts the other day. Nasir does not disappoint. Very luxurious polyester and cotton. The inner layer looks like mesh right? Wrong, it's cotton with little sequins/reflectors. If only they weren't 3k hkd. Construction etc seems solid and the fit was nice. Also tried on one of the tape sweatshirts. The fit was a bit wonky, or just supposed to be slightly cropped. Having handled some astrid Andersen and shaun samson as well I don't get the impression that they are only about the design (like something like pyrex).

[can-]

Ian Isiah

[e0d9n0b5]

great thread. thanks for all the info y'all =]

[germinal]

[JonjoShelvey]