GD

[drawes]

This might be my least favorite Ervell season. The cool, sportsy jizz is gone for me.

[germinal]

yeah it was mostly forgettably but the first few jackets are pretty good realisations of that patagonia style fleece




this look

reminded me of this (side by side the similarities aren't as strong as i'd thought), which made me kind of sad because 2009-2010 ervell was strong as hell


thom browne was cool but lacked some of the creepiness and campness that i look for in his women's





still a bazillion times better than the rest of nyfw

[starfox64]

OH MY GOD

[germinal]

Not really worth posting Jeremy Scott but i actually quite like these graphics
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... RTW-JSCOTT



Proenza Schouler had some cool bits but i'm bored of the super structured arms, nipped in waist thing that's everywhere
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... -PSCHOULER



Lacoste was cool, i dig that they do a show
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... TW-LACOSTE

[sknss]

Why is Lacoste showing in NYC and not Paris?

[prawnzee]

this is all I've seen of Dana Lee S/S 2014, I guess more should be released soonish. looks like the stuff she has been doing from the start, nothing too divergent. personally I'm still interested in getting a waffle jacket, the new color looks nice. anyone have any more pics?

[germinal]

Well it's only bloody

Tokyo Fashion Week

[rublev]

Damn some of that Facetasm stuff is v cool.

[germinal]

[maj]

is it just my biased leaning or are london based designers absalutely dominating the scene right now, younger designers are also gaining traction at what seems to be a faster pace as well as being more of them.

[Syeknom]

Feels like London's been gaining a lot of steam these last few years. Reckon being a "lesser" show city - though still important - gives designers and organisers more freedom away from the star studded lineups of Paris or Milan. Lot of young talent bursting from the UK too.

[germinal]

London has a great support network in place with newgen, man, fashion east etc. it means that new labels can feasibly have half a dozen seasons worth of bfc funding to establish themselves. This doesnt really exist in milan, where, thanks to the more fragile italian economy, designers are seeking out an older, more conservative customer to pay the bills. This isnt really a viable longterm strategy though because it only serves to give the labels a stodgy image. It's telling that Burberry have moved to london - Bailey has built the brand on a young, sexy image, something milan can no longer provide. "London" - the idea, the brand - is super popular in the (lucrative) middle and far east markets right now - it's no coincidence that burb are doing london streetmap prints this season, and have been trading on london stereotypes for a few seasons.

It also helps that london menswear is shown separately from the women's (something the increasingly bloated nyfw needs to replicate) and is shown first in the schedule. The early scheduling means that audiences arent suffering from fatigue and overexposure, their ideas seem fresher, and crucially their products are the first in stores. It's june and the christophers' stock is trickling in already. I bet many casual consumers arent going to wait four months for the third rick owens delivery to arrive - they buy the first cool jacket they try on.

And finally, like syeknom says paris suffers from its own reputation. Its position as the creme de la creme means it's harder for newer brands to infiltrate.

[JonjoShelvey]

was reading somewhere on sufu that lux-sportswear is reaching critical mass, especially out of london. do yall agree?

[rublev]

London is great etc, and it's important, but I find it really easy to dislike as a scene. Is that just me?

Maybe it's just cos every time i'm there they put my Scottish money under one of those scanners :(

[rublev]

Anyway, here's some stuff from the Antwerp academy show that finished at the weekend.



Lina Rosquist



Flora Seierl





Raffaela Graspointner (remember seeing her stuff last year and it looked incredible... this is just as good)



Kristina Kharlashkina



Eran Shanny



Clara Jungman

[CleanThug]

It's kind of overwhelming getting into shows when never seeing any before. Is it necessary to check out earlier shows and if so any resources lying around the interwebs?

[can-]

someone post raf and rick I'm on a train

[Bobbin.Threadbare]

The hype train.

[bels]

Flowy summerweight long coats and trews with some sort of modified top block (splash of colour being a fav) seem to be all over these menswear collections.

[Vaeltaja]

[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/99339475[/vimeo]

Enjoyed the _Julius runway. He seems to be "maturing" for better or worse, if that's what we're going to call the clean lines look. He seems to suffer from the problem he had last s/s where there wasn't really anything interesting. F/W is a definite strong point to the collection, and s/s is a lot more boring. However, it seems very wearable. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I see people where this stuff with other brands like Dior.

[germinal]

[can-]

stop posting your thoughts about a collection in rep comments

[can-]

Not ina position to post the collection atm but god damn, its crazy how good slp ss15 (and probsbly most slp collections) could be with the smallest amount of restraint. Im not going to presume to know what hedi is going for and any conversation about slp that doesnt begin with a nod to his massive talent bugs me, but man even just pulling half the jewelry could make the collection feel relevant for 2014

[germinal]

[mc-lunar]

I can't find a link, but I know the pics are somewhere in the SLP styleforum thread so I'll dredge them up later but what I wanted to bring up was that one year, Hedi threw (and photographed) an after party for all his models and I believe wrote about how it was his vision of youth culture and it was 100% white. Honestly sickening.

[mc-lunar]

[deadkitty]

really cool stuff in Joseph Turvey GIRLS



the rest are below

[germinal]

Contrary to popular belief, there were actually some decent shows at NYFW, check 'them out:

Telfar
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... ar/telfar/
Sexy, positive clothing for the normcore kids.



Thom Browne
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... om-browne/
One of his most accomplished women's collection to date; this season Thom's '60s housewife has been plied with hallucinogens by her dodgy shrink and is tripping her way through a neighbourhood BBQ. Peep the hats.



Altuzarra
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... altuzarra/
A lot of designers at NYFW go for sexy-yet-wearable, but for my money, none does better than Joseph Altuzarra.



The Row
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... -wear/row/
A continuation of the previous season, Nadege's final season at The Row before moving to Hermes is solemn and meditative.



Rodarte
http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spri ... r/rodarte/
Flotsam, jetsam, army jackets.



Eckhaus Latta
http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/shows/2 ... latta.html
Something about rust, something about nipples, something about triple tiered trainers

[bels]

The Thom Browne woman probably hasn't played much Fallout but she reminds me of tranquility lane

[breakadawn]

Didn't think it merited a new thread, so here's Ovadia & Sons SS15.



Very nice, clean cuts, a pretty good show overall. Loved the music choices.