Engineered Garments

[can-]

never seen a cuff like that. EG blazers often have no vents, have tiny double vents, have double vents which attach behind the flap with fabric to keep the shape (often double vented blazers in light fabrics flare out really hard)

EG finishing is always impeccable. I'll post some detail shots from my own stuff when I get a chance

[blankinput]

All I can say is that FW14 is going to be fucking nuts beyond what they've released in the lookbook. Only thing I can let slip is that the "traditional" duffle coat is making its triumphant return, which is instacop status for me because I will not survive another Northeastern winter without a proper outer layer. SS15 is going to be something Daiki has had in the works for years and it's gonna mind fuck everyone. Get pumped.

[blankinput]

Would murder someone for the "Ashfield Jacket":

[surri]

[frogosaurus]

Other than ebay, rakuten, and forum marketplaces (SF, SuFu, Grailed), what are the best places to hunt for second hand EG?

[ramdomthought]

so much to talk about in the brand and you want to talk about where to get it cheap?

[ramdomthought]

one of the million other threads about questions is a better place to ask


Questions about sizing, where2cop, how2wear kill brand threads

edit: so does needlessly bitching about stuff, victim of what i'm saying

[frogosaurus]

@ramdomthought not necessarily, maybe i'm interested in older stuff too? anyways i just thought this would be the place to ask, but where would be better?

[BobbyZamora]

strongly disagree that it should be asked elsewhere. if it is in the engineered garments thread then other people will be able to know the info just by reading the thread. they won't have to ask in the q&a thread or do a forum wide search to find out.

[balloons]

ideal "airport" jacket imo; probably wouldn't even need a carryon when traveling if I had this

it's almost whimsical in its excess of pockets that I've considered keeping my eye out for one, but I think it would potentially be a bit much for me, visually speaking. wonder how it feels... is ripstop cotton very warm or would this be comfortable in early-mid spring?

[can-]

depends on if its lined or not but ripstop tends to be pretty lightweight.

[frogosaurus]

@balloons I tried one on last week actually. If I remember correctly it was more like 2 layers, so not sure how warm it is but it's relatively heavy if that makes sense.

[blankinput]

@balloons

I own the Expedition jacket. It is not lined and it has fourteen (yes, fourteen) pockets. It should be fine for cool spring days and chilly summer nights; relatively lightweight. The grid-like ripstop pattern isn't very noticeable at all, which is great imo. It is *the* most popular piece this season and for good reason. That being said, it is pretty visually striking like you mentioned and it might look a bit silly if the rest of your fit isn't up to snuff. I'm sure you're fine, though, and you could wear it well.

If you're interested, check these websites out for stockists of the piece: http://www.chrispacheco.com/brands/engineered-garments

Also, for EG items, keep in mind that if you want it, it's popular, and you're asking around about where to buy it...it's usually already too late. Odds of popular pieces surviving to sale either at Nepenthes or elsewhere = slim to none. From there, it's either getting lucky on eBay or Rakuten or elsewhere, but if you're patient enough a lot of really amazing things will pop up.

If you need sizing advice for this jacket, PM me and we can figure this out.

[balloons]

the back pockets sort of turn me off of it a bit. it makes sense that they'd add them but I'd feel like that pushes it into a bit of a repro-y, hunting-y look whereas I usually wear high top converse and band tees. not sure if I'd look too incohesive/weird or if it could work. though, if these back pockets don't hang/jut out like I'm half imagining they do, it wouldn't bother me too much.

[nevergreen]

goddamn

[nevergreen]

Jun 10 2014
「SPECIAL RELEASE」ENGINEERED GARMENTS x VANS
On Friday the 13th we will be releasing the second round of the Engineered Garments for Vans footwear collection. Three colorways of the multi-panel, mismatched leather and suede combination will be available in the OG Classic Slip-On LX: Navy, Black, and the newest addition to the collection, White.

The shoes will be available exclusively at Nepenthes New York on Friday, June 13th, in store only.

Beginning Monday, June 16th they will be available for order by phone and e-mail.

[odradek]

Formal proxy request registration.

[exprof]

I'm hoping these come in womens sizes this time cause if so I am definitely buying them on the 13th

[CleanThug]

What are the chances I'll be able to order a pair monday?

[blankinput]

I was just talking about the trajectory of the brand with a close friend. We both agreed that the inevitable return to form - less aggressive patterns and fabrics - is inevitable for Daiki. It's the case with many producers of things that they go through an experimental phase and eventually take the more out-there elements from that phase and reconcile them with their roots. SS15 isn't exactly that but within the next few seasons I feel the dust will settle. The best is yet to come, or at least it always seems that way with continuously successful people.

Also, once again, a useful resource should you need it, especially for those of you without simple access to the brand: http://www.chrispacheco.com/brands/engineered-garments

[blankinput]

Some of my favorite stuff. I'll be here talking to myself should you need me.

Not a fan of the styling here but that leather jacket is phenomenal.

Hat sucks here but shirt + jacket + pants is great.

Ramdom showed me this jacket earlier. If it ever gets re-released in a dark brown... Game over.

Easily something you could take to the office in the fall/winter.

[can-]

straps under jackets get me hot and bothered

[can-]

xpost to things that lol me

[blankinput]

Well if other people are posting pictures elsewhere, I guess I can, too.

(Continues talking to self.)

Olive Duffle Coat is instacop for me, although I might be swayed to something else. Nearly $900 with tax, lol. Wool Melton on it is going to be so cozy, especially for brutal/unpredictable winters. Tightly woven, closely sheared fabric = wind resistance/wicking = warmth. It's always the wind that fucks everything up.



Other than that, I will be trying on various pieces from the collection this week (shirt, pants, etc.). Will post back with thoughts on fit, fabric, etc. Maybe pictures, too.

[bouquet]

I have been eyeing these for quite a while, as they've been sitting on yoox for quite a while. Firstly, does anyone have any idea what season they're from/what they're called? And is there a reason they've been sitting on yoox for so long? Maybe people just aren't crazy about them? If I'm able to get a bit more info on them I'll probably snag them the next time yoox does a % off sale, or maybe I'll try them either way; they are tempting.

[blankinput]

^ Spring 2011 Field Pant in what is possibly a beige cotton ripstop. Yoox's product photography is abysmal here, as usual.

Do not buy these. The fit is horribly unrefined, even for a relaxed fit, and will likely not integrate with your wardrobe very well. You'll want to save your money for the next season or so because much, much better stuff is coming.

[bouquet]

Thanks a bunch for the insight. I was on the fence, but I'll definitely hold off. I suppose another thing that contributed to my wanting these was just the fact that EG for yoox prices is very tempting, and part of me wants to buy it an EG piece just for the sake of having it because I love the brand (as much as a person can having only tried things on and stared at lookbooks and not having actually owned anything), but I know that mindset is way off the mark and just leads to disappointment.

[blankinput]

It's all good. A lot of people get into the brand for the reasons you mentioned and wind up wildly disappointed; at least you're cognizant of this. It's why the EG secondhand market is so good. But, there's never a rush to buy anything, he'll be designing for quite a while and when you're ready to jump in, jump in.

[blankinput]

Alright, like I said a few weeks ago, you should be excited: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/revie ... rss_runway

"There is a story behind this offering: Designer Daiki Suzuki looked to the now-defunct brand British Khaki by Robert Lighton and the image of the British army in India, their khaki mil-spec gear commingling with bright colors and kalamkari and paisley prints. The result was a collection of contradictions. Khaki, olive drab, navy, and gray paired with bright florals, printed canvas, and jacquard; Nehru collars, harem pants, and long shirts alongside British officer jackets and double-pleated trousers. Military and workwear tend to be sober by nature, but here much fun was had in mixing and matching patterns, in unlikely fabric combos, and in the contrast between informal and exotic with formal and traditional. More challenging pieces like the wrap-and-tie wide-leg fisherman pants added irreverent fun to a jacket and tie. Numerous riffs on safari- and military-style jackets, all executed with a balance of nuance and convention, were never quite what you'd expect. Suzuki's design process begins with the fabrics, and so one of the greatest strengths here was in the materials—luxe tropical wool; soft, richly colored twill; bright nylon; linen blends; and more unique fabrics like a water-resistant striped cotton with poly backing."

---

Prices are going to be ridiculous but the concept is so fresh and unique. This is something that's never been done before, and to be honest it's really the first time Daiki has fully looked beyond Americana to grasp something "else".

FYI: British Khaki was a brand that sold very well at Louis Boston, a high-end menswear store. Gary Drinkwater, a best friend of Daiki Suzuki (for nearly 30 years now) and current store owner Drinkwater's in Cambridge, MA, was a sales associate at Louis, and had experience with the brand. He had mentioned the idea of British military influence to Daiki. The idea incubated for several years and is being realized now.

"This is something nobody else can do," the designer said, standing in the showroom of his Garment District office. "Only I can do this." - Daiki Suzuki

What a statement, especially from someone who is, by all accounts, very reserved and mysterious.

---

Also, since next Tuesday is the SS 2015 presentation, I'm not sure if I'll be trying on any of the gear this weekend or next week. Probably next week because IIRC the shipment date my friend got last year was basically the third week of July. I will be posting reviews of each item and fit pics if I am permitted, but there is the chance I will have to wait to do so until Nepenthes NY uploads their stuff on the blog first. This is out of respect for both the brand, my friend, and Daiki and co., who work tirelessly every year to bring out awesome stuff.

[bels]

Looks great, love the models too.