Designers & Their References

[blankinput]

Post any references, cultural or otherwise, that you see designers make in their clothes, accessories, etc. What's obvious to you might not be obvious to someone else, so don't let that stop you. Glaringly blatant or not, it's all cool to read. I don't think this has been done before, but maybe I'm wrong.

Daiki Suzuki did a lot of vintage buying in MA in the 1980s and was around Cambridge quite often. A lot of the EG item names are based on Boston streets, with some variations in spelling. Some examples are the Landsdown Jacket and the Chauncey Shirt.

RRL has an Alden Indy-esque boot they periodically release. It's called the Belloq Boot. As some of you probably know, the Indy Boot name comes from Harrison Ford's Indiana Jones character. RRL's Belloq boot is a tongue-in-cheek reference to Dr. Belloq from the Indiana Jones universe.

[yourdad]

[parastexis]

raf simons, rothko




mmm, van gogh




mmm, the usual suspects



ysl, mondrian




bless, indecent proposal




carven, bosch



valentino, cranach




not sure if she's the reference, but I've always though the lightning bolt on uc jeans were a reference to patti smith's tattoo, especially considering her influence and relationship with the brand

[can-]

jun takahashi only eats food out of cans or something

[ramseames]

[DeafIdiotGod]

Our Legacy SS15

[sweeeeeeeeeeet emootion]

edgar evans the polar explorer, nigel cabourn



thommy b, amish community

also shit like this also reminds me of a lot of UCism and maybe some black means pieces

[sweeeeeeeeeeet emootion]

also, Manastash are on some vintage Patagonia shit. does anyone know if their designs are actually performance based or just for style?



(manastash)


(patagonia)

[Iliam]

jenny holzer owns pseudo poignant capitalised bold text







(2000)


Raf SS 2002


josh reim ss14


Andrea Jiapei Li


Walter Van Beirendonck A/W15 (~disputable inclusion~)


i know i've seen similar text elsewhere......

[hharrissonn]

supreme frances frames, named after kurt's daughter

[hharrissonn]

sorry to spam this thread, but i just saw this in a video i'm watching for an anthropology class



top: organizers at a 1992 demonstration in nyc in response to plans to build a federal building on an african american ground
bottom: supreme xodus tee fw12

also here's an album of stuff they've done over the years taken from strictlysupreme



again sorry for sup spam

[Iliam]

Man Ray, L’Enigme d’Isidore Ducasse, 1920


Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Wrapped Venus (Project for Villa Borghese, Rome), 1974


Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Wrapped Trees (Fondation Beyeler and
Berower Park, Riehen, Switzerland), 1997-98


Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Wrapped Monument to Vittorio Emanuele (Piazza Duomo, Milano), 1970





Junya Watanabe Fall 2008

[germinal]

[BIGBEE]

jim lambie, really worried this was already posted and I missed it somehow :P

[3hunna]

Margiela and Malevich

Kazimir Malevich, Female Torso, 1933 and Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal S/S 2014


Kazimir Malevich, Two Figures and Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal A/W 2013


Kazimir Malevich, Two Male Figures, 1932 and Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal A/W 2012


Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela A/W 2009


Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela A/W 2012


Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2011


Kazimir Malevich, Sketch of a costume for the opera "Victory Over The Sun" by Matyushin, 1913 and Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2009

[areo]

I think that it might be going a bit far to say that those Craig Green knits could only ever have been influenced by boro, or even that they're exactly the same thing. Personally, when I think of boro, I think of a much larger amount of much smaller pieces of fabric. To my mind, the jumpers above look much more like Comme des Garcons, particularly some of the things from ss and aw 83 (more images in spoiler):





More recently, they also remind me of Tao Kurihara's line for CDG:





Obviously, those things don't look entirely the same as the knits that we're talking about, but I just wanted to make the point that there might be something else going on other than boro. Also, I'm sure that Rei Kawakubo and Tao Kurihara were/are in some way influenced by boro, but it seems to me that the influence of boro on Craig Green is definitely mediated by a lot of other work, i.e. (maybe!) some of the things that I've put in this post.

[areo]

I see where you're coming from, but I doubt that a designer who is inspired by workwear, eastern shapes, kimonos, religious dress and simple fabrics is going to be uninterested in 'classic' Japanese fashion, e.g. CDG. Could you maybe elaborate on why he is adamantly not going to be referencing CDG? I'm not necessarily saying that his work is a direct translation of the images that I'm referring to, just that it doesn't look to me like it's a direct translation from boro either, so there must be something inbetween. Not "oh there's ss83 again!" but also not "oh, boro!"

[areo]

Again, I see what you're saying, and I don't want to sound like I'm banging on about the same thing over and over again... but I just don't really think that you can separate eastern capital F fashion from these shapes, forms and attitudes to gender. I mean even mentioning those two sets of things in conjunction is to describe why someone like Rei Kawakubo is famous: deconstructing ideas about form, gender, etc. through the use of traditional (Japanese) shapes and techniques. Even if he hadn't picked up a fashion magazine before going to university, he definitely picked up a few while he was there, and he probably still does now. I think that it's probably quite difficult for a fashion designer now to explore shapes, forms and attitudes to gender by looking at 'eastern' models without thinking a little about the work that has been done before by Comme des Garcons etc. I guess that my point isn't really about Craig Green any more, it's more to say that I don't think that fashion design is done in a vacuum. Even if someone isn't the type to deliberately make a collection in reference to another designer, I don't think think that design is such a one way process that you can totally and forever avoid thinking about what else has been done.

[odradek]

U-bahn, baby.



http://andberlin.com/2015/05/29/that-be ... ound-look/

[blanket]

maggie howell ss16

[blanket]

some actual references

pol chambost and rafjil aw09




kazimir malevich and chanel aw03 (imo feels quite incongruous, lazily done)

[bels]

[Lorcan]

[Lorcan]

On further googling, it seems Charles Burns is quite a well-known cartoonist who's done some really interesting looking graphic novels. Anyone read any of this stuff?


The Black Hole cover with the eyes blocked out is very Facetasm



Actually I find it cool/interesting that a lot of streetwear brands are inspired by comics and 90s graphics design in a really obvious way, but with Facetasm you wouldn't guess where the flintstone came from.

[Bonobonobo]

Sasquatchfabrix



http://www.spoon-tamago.com/2014/05/06/ ... i-war-ads/

I only really found out about this because the name of the clothing happened to be "korosuna jacket" which made it easy to google. For some reason it makes me feel paranoid (best way I can describe it) about how I probably miss the references and influences of a lot the clothing I admire or wear. Not that I would get a jacket without knowing the meaning of the words on the back, but when it comes to abstract graphics and the like it's very easy to have no idea of their context, or misinterpret entirely. I guess it bothers me because appreciating something meaningful purely because it looks cool seems to be a disservice to the meaning and also the designer's intent.

I don't know, do you guys find it's a disservice, offensive, or superficial? (might be better to ask in random fashion thoughts)

[hharrissonn]

imo if you're wearing a garment like this, it sort of implies it's own politics regardless of those of the wearer. So not really a disservice to appreciate it purely for the aesthetics because the designer's intent/politics of the piece/history attached are all still there for everyone else to interpret.

i wouldn't say it's superficial but i would say it matters more in the case of appropriating religious iconography/culturally sensitive/sacred themes

[Bobbin.Threadbare]

[saveed_samir]

[Julio]

[oucho]

JW Anderson


gardening trousers


I've seen pairs with the exact same quilting before too but can't find any pics online