Black is A Piece Of Cloth Meets Dress

[Iliam]

[Rosenrot]

Thank you for starting this much needed thread.

For a little more insight there's a lovely book to start with: http://www.amazon.com/Future-Beauty-Yea ... 1858945461
The book paid a homage to 'In Praise of Shadows', a short story that touches on the concept of wabi-sabi which can be found here: http://dcrit.sva.edu/wp-content/uploads ... nizaki.pdf

The exhibit that goes by the same name and theme is currently making its round worldwide, hopefully some of you guys will be able to catch it.

[Iliam]

[blanket]

[qalandar]

Yohji Yamamoto Coat 1980s.



Yohji Yamamoto Coat 1982.



Yohji Yamamoto Ensemble 1983



Yohji Yamamoto Tunic 1980s




Yohji Yamamoto Shirt 1980s



Yohji Yamamoto Trousers A/W 1983/84



Yohji Yamamoto S/S 1984



Yohji Yamamoto Jacket S/S 1984



Yohji Yamamto Coat 1984/85



Yohji Yamamoto Hat A/W 1986/87



Yohji Yamamoto Trousers 1988/89



Yohji Yamamoto Coat ca1989



Yohji Yamamoto Dress S/S 1989



Yohji Yamamoto Ensemble S/S 1990



Yohji Yamamoto Felted Wool Coat W/ Gold Metal 1990s



Yohji Yamamoto Dress 1991



Yohji Yamamoto Dress S/S 1993



Yohji Yamamoto Suit 1993



Yohji Yamamoto Hats S/S 1997



Yohji Yamamoto Hat ca1998



Yohji Yamamoto Secret Silk Dress S/S 1999



Yohji Yamamoto Cotton Muslin Wedding Dress 2000



Yohji Yamamoto Dress S/S 2005



from AW98



YYPH AW 2001-2002 -- "Gangsters at a Heart"








photographs: David Burton

Autumn/Winter 1988, Ad Campaign.



Works of illustrator Mats Gustafson, Yohji Yamamoto, Vogue Nippon.







Photography by Richard Avedon.



Milla Jovovich, Hat and Shirt by Yohji Yamamoto, New York, March 1998



Malgosia Bela, Coat by Yohji Yamamoto, New York, March 2000



Malgosia Bela, Dress by Yohji Yamamoto, New York, March 2000


Autumn/Winter 1998 AD by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin

Spring/Summer 1998 AD by ?


Spring/Summer 1990 AD by Nick Knight


Yohji Yamamoto Dress 1988-89


AW 91-92


SS 93


SS 98


AW 98-99


AW 99-00


Photography by Max Vadukul ...







Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1984/85.



Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 1985.

Photography by Paolo Roversi ...



Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1996/97.






Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 1997.

Photography by Alfredo Albertone ...



Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1993/94.




Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1995/96.




Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1997/98.

Photography by Jean-François Deroubaix ...



Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1985/86.

Photography by Eddy Kohil ...



Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 1985.




Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1985/86.



Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1986/87.
Photography by Nick Knight.



Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1995/96.
Photography by David Sims.

Photography by Yukata Yamamoto ...



Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 1993.



Yohji Yamamoto.




Yohji Yamamoto.
Photography by Jeremy Stigler.

more scans


Spring/Summer 2005, backstage, by Donata Wenders


Spring/Summer 2005, Pleated red silk dress, in honour of Madame Grès


Spring/Summer 2005, Black pleated silk dress, and Fall/Winter 1997, Harlequin coat




Spring/Summer 1998, Tuxedo-dress in black silk with train


Spring/Summer 1999, Wedding dress in mother of pearl coloured silk and hoop skirt


Fall/Winter 1999 and Spring/Summer 2005, shirts in white poplin


Fall/Winter 1995, Long evening dress in black silk


Fall/Winter 1998, Wedding dress with crinoline in bamboo and petticoats in wool jersey


Guinevere Van Seenus by Paolo Roversi



(Spring) 1982

from [/quote]



* * *


The theme was 鹿鳴館 (; Meiji-era Western-style building in downtown Tokyo, constructed in 1883 for entertaining foreign diplomats and dignitaries). From wiki: "In the ballroom, Japanese gentlemen in evening dress imported from tailors in London danced the waltz, polka, quadrille, and mazurka with Japanese ladies dressed in the latest Parisian fashions". At the same time, Yohji also seemed to contrast this cultural blend against an american backdrop from the same time, ended up with some urban cowbow amalgamation where cowboy hats were juxtaposed with japanese prints from this era while at the same time doing his take on european formal wear I guess. Basically a suits collection, many takes on informal and formal suits. From what I've seen, a fucking great collection.




"Flowers and boys". He used several 12, 13 year old models for this show. The cuts were very wide, looking at the pics it almost feels like a teenage boy wearing his father's clothes and making them his own in a way. Didn't he have a section in "My dear bomb" alluding to his? The concept I mean, not this particular collection. He did a lot of clever cutout patterns on jackets, coats, Aberdeen shirts as well as shoes. The other big theme was flowers, lots of flower prints on shirts, shoes and jackets. The stage was lined with flowers like sunflowers and tulips






For this collection he did a lot of layering with bulky knits, complicated inserts, object dyed suits (similar to y's for men aw03), huge velvet coats, corduroy suits, etc. A lot of good stuff in here, imo.



Old Yohji French ads from the 1990's


credit goes to eBay user paris-le-chat

[Iliam]

[rjbman]

[qalandar]

[qalandar]

yohji yamamoto women's fall/winter 2014-15 backstage by elise toide

[Iliam]

Yohji at a widely acknowledged peak.



The collection is quite beautiful, serene and playful. Instead walking quickly, each model comes on unhurriedly, mostly one at a time, and remains on the 'runway' for about a minute. I like that Yohji was unafraid to go slowly and ask the audience to focus on one thing at a time.

Things seem a bit cloud-like. The models are calm but not sneery or aloof. Trails of gossamer and fabric billow behind them. They toss off their gloves and throw away their beautiful hats. It's sort of the opposite of the 'standard' fashion show. Someone in the front row is wearing a jumper with the five pointed red communist star. She claps a lot, justifiably I think.

[blanket]

[qalandar]

Yohji and embroidery

[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/24722693[/vimeo]

An old one that perhaps many have already seen ...

[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/6568236[/vimeo]

[KLF]

not sure if it's been mentioned in here yet or not but i'm currently reading this: http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Fashion- ... gy_b_img_y

pretty neat so far. i've never known much about the history of issey miyake, so the first section has been really informative and enjoyable.

[KLF]

: definitely worth checking out when you get the chance

: i'll try and scan a few of the photos in it, some really awesome old stuff in here

[thephfactor]

Rec'd a Comme Des Garcons book published in 1986 via inter-library loan. It contains the Hans Feurer and Peter Lindergh photos in the third post, and others from 1982-1986. It's pretty big. I love the photos a lot :3

[qalandar]

YOHJI YAMAMOTO
WWD (Jul 8, 2002): 7.



Women wear the trousers for Yamamoto's show-stealer.
24 January 1998
The Guardian


Tailoring and Sportswear Merge to Make the Classic Cool
Suzy Menkes
24 January 1998
International Herald Tribune


WWD 1997


WWD 1998


WWD 1999



Yohji Yamamoto
The Observer, Oct 7, 2001;

[qalandar]

also was lucky to pick up a ss00 suit




the collection is really beautiful and perhaps my favorite. a lot of the usual archives don't capture the garments well (obviously motion is one component) because 2-3 looks were sent out at once so they didn't bother taking pics of everything. worth a look if you've not seen and are interested

[oneseriouslady]

not sure if this has been posted before, but:

the japanese revolution in paris fashion by yuniya kawamura http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Revoluti ... 185973815X is a fairly easy read that discusses how yohji and rei (and other japanese designers) were able to enter the western fashion system and the different factors that came into play in order for them to gain legitimacy as designers. it's an interesting argument/perspective... kawamura is essentially arguing that in order to become successful on a global scale, these designers had to conform & reaffirm the french fashion system and that they would have never become internationally successful if they merely stayed in japan.

[odradek]

that's an interesting thesis - my understanding was that it was only by reflection and reimagining of the french fashion system (in an aesthetic sense) were they able to build something notable, though I guess I should read the book before I make any real statements.

[nevergreen]

hey guys i wrote a small report on yohji and was wondering if anyone was interested in reading it! i felt like i could have wrote a ton more, but i was limited to 5 pages with specific topics about the designer. let me know if there's anything that could be improved as far as sentence structure, grammar, etc. i've read it over a couple times myself but i wrote it so it's like..



also if you haven't seen his ss99 collection you need to

[une_impasse]

@nevergreen

I don't wanna reply in a rep because I am very long-winded naturally but I think it's good, I don't know the prompt or guidelines but as an English major who is also a middle child desperate for attention I want to help!

I think the beginning is a little clunky, as biographic portions tend to be, and there are a few sentences that seem clipped/blunt/incomplete, I think you could combine a few sentences or phrases to make them feel like finished thoughts and ideas. It's usually the intro sentences that seem abrupt for me. The phrase "and has no plan for stopping now" also reads a little too informal and when you set up his famous "black" quote you don't need to say that you're about to quote him. I think you can cut the guitar bit from your intro too and bring that up later, it feels a bit like a throw away when it could be woven into his story later.

Anyway, I think it's a great intro and overview for someone not familiar with him without getting too introspective as we can get on this website, but still presents the information needed to understand Yohji and his design history/philosophies. I think your writing is at it's strongest when you're working with his own words and supplementing them. Don't let my nitpicking bother you! It's very hard to get a good biography of a designer, especially a non-Euro or non-American, so I think it's an excellent summation of his career and overarching design aesthetics.

(im also fully aware my response is poorly written, but go you! It's hard to describe or discuss someone who's medium is so flagrantly visual and tactile!)

[yoyobeat]

This is one of the most beautiful items I've come across in a while.

[Iliam]

feel like this thread

[Iliam]

really needs a new

[Iliam]

page. i always feel

[Iliam]

intimidated and scared

[Iliam]

clicking on

[Iliam]

the thread bc there are

[Iliam]

so many jpegs

[Iliam]

to load and scrolling becomes complicated.

need the fresh hope of a new page.