Twombly garms

[haz]

go to any edgy club here and it'll be 90% wavey garms. it's like everyone swaps out their canda goose parka for a 90s fluorescent adidas jacket come 9pm.

here's a student article on the shops dedicated to this sorta thing here in bris http://bristol.tab.co.uk/2015/03/20/sea ... aker-find/

e: could be applied to the culture as a whole i suppose

[huhuslum]

[teck]

Can someone explain to me.

in a few bullets or maybe a paragraph.

what the fuck im reading and what nu lad is? Looks like a more socioeconomically-aware form of stateside normcore/90s.

Sorry for ignorance British subculture is not my first language.

[maj]

I find with stuff like this labels add nothing , they flatten everything to the point where there is no room for discussion. Yeah it's all 90's or whatever people are broadly slapping on things, but hot wheels, lego, ford and Toyota all make cars. The way I look at it is a simeotaneous cultural shift of art, music, fashion and youth pushing back on the idea of higher culture, that they need to appreciate the finer things in life when in fact many cant and wont afford them, or can't be arsed pretending to like them. I mention above as to why I think this is.

Without rehashing what I said in that comment to really grasp it you need to understand the resurgence of grime, house, and garage, the associated cultures fed through the lad culture of late 00's and early 10's . It's more than just youths raiding thrift shops to look ironic as a lot paste on. The best way to understand it is not to look at it like clothes, but who are the people wearing it, the cultural context and the situations their in. Which can be said for most of fashion really.

[huhuslum]

More than anything, i think that this recent rise of 90s culture is being driven by drugs. In my city, there has been this huge shift of lads who everyday weekend used to be smashing jagerbombs, are now munching on pills and snorting charlie, all wearing the typical nu lad uniform.

[haz]

ngl i own a few slazenger sweats and occasionally will wear my c.e. jacket out and i probs will tonight. i think it's interesting to see where it started and how fast it has spread. definitely wasn't around before i went to uni but now im here im starting to see it quite a bit. at least it's refreshing to see something new grow

[maj]

These scenes have always had drug use, loads of it. they come from working class or marginalised communities which as a trend have high drug use in urban areas, now people outside the circles are getting in on it the figures are larger as they want to join in. Drugs always become more popular when money's tighter, mashing jaeger bombs costs so fucking much in slower towns let alone cities. I expect the papers to quickly run headlines of "drugs ruining the youth" as soon as a few middle class kids OD, and the scene quickly gets demonised as happened when they first cropped up rather than addressing underlying issues. I'm also willing to bet this all dies down when the economy picks up to a quicker pace.

[wintyd0n0]

@maj
What do you reckon will take over when the economy picks up? I feel like this trend could die quite quickly (after this summer possibly).

[stappard_]

I think its possible to overstate the impact the economy on this as a youth culture, it seems like the most vociferous proponents are middle class enough and young enough that the effects of economic swings are at least relatively muted

There's definitely something in the idea of hard times meaning increased drug use, especially suburban and regional, but I'm not completely convinced thats too connected to wavey garms which strikes me as 80% shallow trend 20% class tourism

[maj]

i like to make a joke that the majority won't fully start to change till peoples shoes start to wear out, and given the amount of huaraches and airmax that have been flowing out the stores as of late i see it being here ~for a while~. albeit not in its current state as it will inevitably fluctuate as the crowd naturally moves (bmx is getting cooler, genres with all this hype develop to more than they were, taste makers making moves). i'd say if people moved away from all this and there was a return to ~embracing the ladder~ rather than chilling at the bottom it would start with square toed shoes.

definitely agreed in the sense that it's muted and there is not this direct correlation, but the way people dress and the especially the youth has always been tied to how people feel about the country and the direction it's going (mods, skinheads and rockers were all reactions how people embraced or rejected the shift in job market, given times are different now). but i don't think it's shallow because it doesn't feel sold to them on a street level, like people who wear this stuff are still getting mocked and looked at funny by their parents, employers and shop keepers alike, and not everyone is taken in by it (reaction from skeptas fans over the sports direct thing good example). just feels very bottom up as opposed to the top trickling down compared to recent years. while london may be the focus and getting tagged as that by media other youth around the country unconnected to it were having similar moves makes me feel it isn't just originating from one epicentre and isn't just middle class.

yeah there is a valid argument that people are and will increasingly hop on this and wash out any culture from it, but that happens to everything popular and to predict it or say in essence "it's over" before it's really had time to run it's course is a bit :/. it requires the presumption that everyone wearing this is doing it ironically, when it doesn't come off like that to me when you don''t see posts like "poor people clothes lol" but instead people going to nights out and just adopting what they see around them (linking back to the idea the original message gets lost, the more who copy). there is also trouble with criticising everyone who may be middle class going out and mingling in areas they wouldn't have otherwise and taking flintstone and adopting behaviour and instantly assume they're appropriating. when in fact if you have semi decent awareness of a smaller scene and it's happening's and what's going on if anything you're appreciating it at the same level who may not have the social background (for better or worse) of you.but as i mentioned before, appropriation for me is when i see the highstreet or designer with no real connection/ understanding of stuff hawking clothes "inspired by it", not youths buying clothes off ebay and listening to some new albums.

as a side note to anyone not from the uk the class convo may be tedious and not really fashion orientated for you, but it's hard to separate one another in the uk as it's entrenched into everything.

[bels]

All well and good but if wavey lads don't stand for anything except noisy windbreakers then what's the diff?

[maj]

they also have getting mashed, a passion for dancing, and underground dance music and a good night out in common. subcultures by definition don't have to "push anything" directly, they're just tangents from mainstream culture bonded by similar, words, looks and activities. we'll look back on these in like 20 years when our kids run up to us after school and go

"mum/dad can you give me £30 to get this sick wavey garm off the bay"

and then we'll bore them with how it was/wasn't real and how we liked/disliked these youths.

[stateofyou]

I think quite a lot of it has to do with a reaction to indie being stale as fuck. When your dad starts to like shit like Kasabian, going out and dropping 5 nintendos and chatting about how "totez sick" the "Bashmore" set was becomes v appealing. While deep house started to gain popularity from Bashmore, Disclosure etc I can't help but feel it's our answer to EDM. While we were all deepthroating Lightspeed Champion and The Libertines America was feeling Arcade Fire etc, and maybe it's the same here? Also worth remembering that it's easy to discredit the deep house lads, and for the most part I fucking hate them, they are on the edge of some seriously amazing music (Old Bristol Techno, Current UK Techno like Hessle, Livity Sound, Berecuese Heroique). People also like Grime because they can sort of edge into it like hip hop, but it's also got a bit of that post-internet pc music throwbackism to it? Like its all about Nokia's and Bluetooth but I don't really know how big a part of it that is or if its the away days britishness of it that's kept it popular? I don't really think it has much to do with the economy, Nu Rave was even more "lets get fucked and drink battery acid cause our lives are shit" than this and that happened pre financial crash, dunno if its (without sound too much like Clive Martin) a sort of a feeling of complete numbness with regards to the state of the world for our generation? Like so much is expected of people and you are railed on this track to success or you're a drop out waste of space? And it feels great to throw all the stress away and say fuck it?

Probs sounds completely pretentious & I'm shit at writing so if there's mistakes just tell me but that's my thoughts on the matter

[stateofyou]

I also think it's gonna get worse before it gets better, mumdance has been playing loads of happy hardcore out, ben ufo closed blocs jungle stage with a set of full 90's breakbeat tunes and when I saw him last month he closed out his set with jungle as well. Could easy easy see a full on jungle/happy hardcore throwback movement after we're done with deep house & then it'll probably be fucking indie again because using guitars is going against the grain. Feel a bit sick seeing proper middle class people (myself included) going on about how much they love grime when you know they weren't about it, I mean I like the music and know quite a bit about it but jesus the way people go on about it after they hear #ThatsNotMe (without even knowing about the Wiley - Pies sample) is ridiculous...

[bels]

Suddenly realising that nintendos must be drugs.

Thought people were ironically bashing on DSs in the club.

[wiggly--woo]

[haz]

saw murlo last night and yes it was exactly what you can imagine. also saw a guy wearing a supreme parka from last autumn (the black one with a reflective strip across the chest) and someone complimented my c.e. jacket so that was cool.

you make a good point and that's p interesting cos i've never seen moncler out but like x5 canada goose everyday

[bird.in.flight]

the real question is when is dancehall gonna reach the spot grime was last year?
it's honestly just a matter of time and seems more likely than happy hardcore i'm thinking like ~6 months

[stappard_]

[CPV1]

Cav Empt is definitely the one for wearing on nights out. It's conspicuous enough that people recognise it but it's also exclusive, and foreign, enough that everyone doesn't just own it. Never had any piece of clothing complimented more on nights out than .

Couple of highlights being, chatting with MssingNo in the smoking area at Dance Tunnel after he came up to me to ask me where to buy Cav Empt from (he was wearing a Kenzo sweatshirt himself). As well as a couple of super spangled boys at Fabric that spent like five minutes stroking it and saying how "fucking sick" it is.

Also the fact that they've had seasons modelled by both D Double E and Zomby means that you can always end up talking about how "cool" that is.

[haz]

[stappard_]

no, not all of them

bronies, for example

[bels]

Is a central pillar of wavey culture wearing outerwear inside clubs

[CPV1]

[stateofyou]

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/art ... ore-jungle

soundtrack to this article

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a5YvcPgqL0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJKUpW5WiXQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FM3LoVhaigU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWQPP9W2mgY

[hirokinakamura]

How do i kno if my garms are bare wavey

[MxmHrpr]

Funniest thing I see in my both my area and Uni is that the upper-middle-class kids direct transition from Hollister garms to Wavey. Seeing a fucking moose logo under a shitty breaker that they've been shafted for on Asos marketplace is priceless.

Even more, there's the weirdest frictions* when these people encounter actual working class lads that have repped their AM90's since 2005 out of necessity, rather than for a recent trend.

*When I say frictions, it's usually a good head-kicking when they don't realise that the club they're at isn't quite "Nero Reading 2011" where they last encountered a remotely similar gap in class and proportion of people on gear.

[ramseames]

Let's be real now no one is wearing AM90s out of necessity

[maj]

Facemelt.gif

Links not working? (Works in the edit put it in url shit) Can't figure it out either way palace dropped their new look book and its on style.com

[Landscape]

I love this thread. Went to a club last weekend where it was all wavey garms, which was a nice change from all the posh twats (am I doing the UK slang thing right?) at most trendy clubs. I need some AM and a track jacket now.