Japanese designers

[pips]

Another non-Japanese designer who had a lot of success in Japan is Christopher Nemeth, but I dont know if you can consider him obscure since Louis Vuitton paid tribute to his work in their F/W 2015 Menswear collection. His clothes feature a lot of deconstruction and using/reusing unusual materials.







Here's a sample of the LV tribute collection:

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if those Manastash shorts could fit 30-32" waist, hmu... If anyone's lookin for some Gramicci pants I have a pair or two I don't really wear.

I really like weird, heavily designed clothes and I think corduroy is a great fabric. someone called it the fabric of slackers. I'm into that.
Point is, got some twisted seam cords from http://ks-clothing.com/ which has a load of great clothing from a variety of Japanese brands. Focus lies somewhere between gothy and casual. Think Viridi-anne, Attachment and Julius moreso than Paul Harnden or BBS, plus the occasional loud streetwear kinda brand. Everything's pricy. Bigger brands they stock include Individual Sentiments, Shellac, and Guidi, but there are a ton of smaller designers of clothes and accessories featured.
Dhyana
tweed/paper (?!) pants


No Id.


Attack The Mind


Volga Volga




link to view/download entire mag: http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/adven ... ge%2012-14

just some random selections, the whole issue is >200 pages
might be able to offer amateur translations if so desired










Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, I've enjoyed reading everyone's posts. I'd really like to see some other people's favorite looks/brands

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Kinda busy but soonish I'll upload an issue of Go Out, one of my fave Japanese magazines.

Their website is pretty great. it is in Japanese, but there's a relatively easy to explore interface and they stock some really cool brands that blend casual outdoorsy clothes with technical details and fabrics
http://www.goout.jp/

If you like TNF Purple Label or 50)DUPPIES or any of the Grammici/Manastash stuff posted earlier this should be up your alley

[Rosenrot]

[Jaron75]

Though this is my personal opinion but I have always found Japanese clothes quite high on fashion statement. I have tried SuperDry and other Japanese brands and for me they are among top best mens designers brands making awesome and equally comfortable clothes.

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alright let's do some smaller brands.
Eventually I will upload those GO OUT scans and also the Stof aw '15 lookbook but those are both hundreds of images and I am lazy
beware if you have slow internet, many pics ahead

Aldies a/w '12 (lots of pics)



http://myfreedamn.com/
rough n rugged vintage enthusiasts with intrests that range from moto jackets to old racing tshirts. FFO: Buzz Rickson/Tenderloin/Sunny Sports/other vintage repro brands. Did a great book about Hellers Cafe that I wanna kop
sry for ant-size pics


Auguste Presentation s/s '15 lookbook i guess


Nada a/w '14


1PIU1UGUALE3

runway show featuring walking cheekbones

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Finally got around to uploading the mag, got back from a trip yesterday.
Go Out magazine, download link on my photobucket



Samples


http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/adven ... y/Go%20Out

[HexKeySet]

on that note

Sett - looks like a parent company that puts out Anarcho Pax, Mountain Research and Sett for Mountain Boots (see for the whole shebang)

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[yoyobeat]

Procrastination is real. Uploaded first 150 pages (includes mediocre ads unfortunately) of Men's Non-No from december 2014. Has some good stuff.

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EDIT: broken pictures

Sise SS '11
inspired by Tekkon Kinkreet!

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Alright I'll get back to regular updates sooner or later. s/o to anyone who cares lmao
@yoyobeat sent me a hydrating ass WTAPS book in the mail! Thank you so much man! I'll be scanlating it sooner or later and putting it up in the thread here.

So I'm sure we all like to shop on Yahoo! auctions. That being said some people were askin me how to do it and even though there's a ton of super e-z guides online I guess they needed more help so I made an ultra bare-bones lil guide.
This is basically how I shop Yahoo auctions so yknow, it may not be perfect. Still, I think it's p simple.



Also I uploaded an issue of Street Jack from November


preview and link to album

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re: scans
I can't take credit for any of the scans I've uploaded in this thread thus far. The most recent one I got from vvshu before the website changed. You can still get new issues of stuff from their website, but you can only view one image at a time so downloading a whole magazine is kind of a pain.
That being said you can look at a TON of them for free and they have some cool stuff uploaded too, like the Bape e-mook.

http://www.vvshu.com/type/ssnz/


I think one or two of the other ones was from hudie (RIP). When I do scan stuff, like the WTAPS book I'll get around to sooner or later, I use library scanners which are just normal backlit scanners. My scans are waaayy less clean than the pro scans, I dunno how they scan but I assume they take their time and use photoshop to correct the alignment.

[BIGBEE]

tying up some loose ends... will post a couple more really good ones tomorrow.
mostly wtaps graphic tees and tags (some pics are kind of redundant sorry I don't ever curate)


















lots of random stuff i've collected and haven't posted, enjoy

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Nice post. On that topic, here's some scans I made a while ago of that WTAPS book YoYoBeat was so kind so send me.




I might finish the book soon, there's plenty of pages unscanned. I started to translate but I never got around to finishing. Also I'll get around to adding more in-depth posts on single brands. Thanks to all who've read/enjoyed/contributed to this thread

[fun_yunchables]

this brand doesn't get much publicity in general afaik

postalco: primarily known as a stationery & leather goods brand, it has some rainwear offerings that imo are extremely well designed with practicality in mind. postalco was founded by one of the guys behind jack spade, who after leaving started postalco in new york and moved office to tokyo.

the rainwear is unisex, one size only, fitting up to a men's m. several color options

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Let's talk about Edwina Horl.

http://edwinahoerl.com/




One aesthetic I've always loved is the semi-popular Japanese look that consists of simple, quality pieces mixed with the occasional dramatic cut or unusual pattern. I've heard people cal it Japanese normcore.
There are a ton of brands that do this kinda style. Without getting too far into boring name dropping, that list includes Discovered, Sunsea, Unused, Bukht and so on.

Plenty of other Japanese and European designers, like Ones Stroke and House of The Very Island's execute this aesthetic consistently.

On that note, Edwina Horl is an Austrian designer who has found a particularly great level of success designing for the Japanese market.

After teaching herself fashion design, she worked for Yohji Yamamoto in the 90's.. Horl really excels at creating distinctly 'Japanese' designs, in that her garments emphasize comfort (oversized jackets and shirting, dropped crotch pants - here you can really divulge the Yohji influence), dramatic colors, and unisex-friendly pieces. She even has a line of garments produced in the Tohoku region, the area struck by the tsunami in 2011, which aims to support the craftspeople of the region by bringing in money to support them, while also crafting high-quality garments.

Edwina Horl's designs are rarely defined by season or gender, and often makes me recall certain phrases Yohji occasionally uses in interviews, like how his clothing is intended to shield the wearer, and how his clothes aren't limited to a single gender. If you like the unfettered, simple designs of Margaret Howell, another European who caters to the Japanese market as much as or more than her home country, I think you can appreciate Horl's aesthetic. Both designers provide effortless clothing, but Howell prefers to design restrained, yet engaging pieces - whereas Horl excels reworking those simply, understated designs with a subtle twist that undercuts an otherwise typical garment; like, say, a normal shirt executed in a cashmere-soft light burgundy cotton and a slightly scalloped collar. These are clothes not only for those looking to elevate their basics game beyond norse projects or apc, but for anyone who appreciates well-designed, versatile clothes

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Keeping in theme with the idea of dressing effortlessly and interestingly...

It's been hard tracking down info about this brand, because even in Japan, it's a really, really, REALLY small, niche brand with not a lot of info online.
What I do know is that Drawings in Dialogue is a tiny brand that releases (released?) small seasonal collections consisting of a few, simple pieces, like t-shirts and hats, heavily inspired by painting.



(notice the paint smudges on the trim of the hat)

The line is mostly unisex, with sizing varying between season. The designer, a painter, designs clothes inspired by his life as an artist. He cites life in the studio as being particularly inspiring when designing, creating, and detailing his clothes. The line, from what I understand, is intended to be effortless and casual, the kind of clothes an artist may wear in the studio or to grab lunch, without worrying about getting them dirty or worn. Most pieces reference paintings or painting itself. This shirt, for example, was from a collection inspired by the Renaissance (think of a master artist's signature on canvas):

All of the garments are sourced, designed, and crafted domestically in Japan.
Not content to simply reference elements of painting in his designs, the designer (whose name I do not know) often adds hand-painted details to the collections, like on the trim of the hat and on this t-shirt:

more shirts:


From what I've gathered, 'drawings in dialogue' refers to the dialogue between the artist and their art. There's a lot to be said about this concept but this isn't a theory class so no need to get too far into it. However, it's worth considering the value of the painted details and the versatility of the garments so as to deepen one's appreciation of the line.
Forgive me for rambling, it's all part of having a BA in English flaxy

DiD pants, coat, and cardigan:


Sweater



This brings me to the reason I made this post. I bought a pair of Drawings in Dialogue pants months ago on a whim (same ones as in the first picture in this post), knowing nothing about them but hoping they were light enough for the summer. They are the exact opposite.


The quality is incredibly high, but being a hefty cotton/hemp, they're not gonna get much wear for a while. I have them listed for sale, but I think I'm going to keep them after all. There's just a great sense of personality I don't usually get from random y!JP buys.
Many detailed pictures below


The pants have a firm, weighty hand to them. The textile itself is medium-weight and soft, but the construction itself is dense and insulating. All of the paint appliques are real paint. The front of the pants have three small patches that act as tiny pockets. The pants feature a straight leg cuff with a hem sewn inside the leg. Slash pockets on the front, and a single rear pocket on the right side. I'm impressed with the quality, considering how small the brand is. I know very little about these pants except that they're from the FW '10 collection. This collection is also where the hat comes from, I believe. Most of the pieces feature paint splatter details. This collection in particular references the clothing-for-the-studio concept. The cardigan, coat, and pants in the earlier picture are from FW '11, I think, and that collection features less tarnished pieces, recalling the artist outside of their studio, perhaps researching subjects or out to lunch.

To reiterate, I know very, very little about Drawings in Dialogue. The collections are sparse and quality and the designer is inspired by his primary career as a painter. I have no clue if the line is still around, where to buy it, who stocks it, or even the name of the designer. Regardless, I'm satisfied to let the pieces speak for themselves until I find out more information.

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Oh, and before I forget, I made a comprehensive list of stores, Western and Japanese, that carry Japanese clothing because someone requested it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/japanesestreet ... s_eastern/



Hopefully that helps people who want to buy clothes but don't want to worry about the problems that come along with secondhand purchases.
Feel free to spread it around to anyone who may be interested.

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[Julio]

cool thread overall. imho discussion on is-ness could turn a little bit towards their tendency to be a little wonky/out there tech boho, sometimes? but as of late they're toned it down *some*.

speaking of tech boho:

monromian
sits in a similar place to andwander, outdoorsy/camping type gear all kept under the tagline of "urban bohemian". their strength and focus seems to be pattern/print development

they cover most bases in terms of clothing and camping equipment, official site should provide ample information

i've put up some other photos of theirs on my tumblr before, which saves me having to spoiler photos and such tbh


similarly is aldies.
cute stuff, again very strongly outdoor in a heritage way--like if gramicci was designed by wonky japanese hippies, almost? there's something very tongue-in-cheek about it overall, but there's also a lot of cool tech elements in the form of packable jackets and parkas, mesh venting in certain places, and majority of the trousers have zipped wallet pocket (back right) which is something that i practically *always* welcome.


again, so as to avoid having to spoiler more photos there's a fair bit on my tumblr (i quite like the brand's jizz overall, i've realized)

official site:


i have no personal experience with either brand; i was looking at purchasing a pair of trousers from aldies a while back but i've had to put my money elsewhere so it's on hold in the meantime. either way thought it'd be a good place to begin my contributions?

[jujumaster]

Attachment SS16 on point, do like the use of smart tailored with TNs that my shit there

http://www.attachment.co.jp/

http://www.selectism.com/2015/09/15/att ... ring-2016/

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John/Jane Smith by Yuji Yoshida (吉田雄二)



I only heard about John Smith a week or two ago but I'm really into them so far. Yoshida, the designer, designed In Cloudiness for a while before launching John Smith and its' sister label Jane Smith this year.



The 2016 SS John Smith lookbook has been pretty well received on most of the sites I've seen it on (http://hypebeast.com/2015/10/john-smith ... r-lookbook) but not many people saw the '15 AW lookbook inspired by Billy The Kid and the sheriff who killed him, Pat Garret:




Interview with Yoshida: http://www.shipsmag.jp/2014summer/article.php?no=34

The Smith lines are intended to be versatile, casual, and comfortable. Everything is made in Japan and meshes really well with Visvim, Nonnative, and Bukht, along with other popular casualwear brands. One distinct thing that Yoshida does really well is design clothes unhindered by gender; John/Jane Smith share pieces with androgynous and generous cuts, although each line does contain certain pieces intentionally cut for men and women. Still, of the gender-specific pieces allow for both men and women to wear them, however.



None of the Western sites that mentioned the new collection linked John/Jane Smith stockists, so I found some.
Birthday: http://www.birthday-fuk.jp/home.html
Colors: http://shop.colors-store.com/?mode=grp&gid=1230354
Birdseye: http://www.birdseye.ne.jp/fs/birdseye/c/br-incloudiness
Birthday also sells Jane Smith. There are more shops out there if you're willing to look. It's a cool brand that I see big things happening for. With Kaptain Sunshine and a few other previously unknown brands getting picked up in the West, I have a feeling that John Smith will be making its way out here soon enough.

Unrelated: I had no idea that Hypebeast's webstore sells And Wander, Hender Scheme, Phenomenon, Discovered, Factotum, Facetasm, N. Hoolywood, Minotaur and a bunch of other Japanese brands. I think they just started offering stuff from these brands but I'd be surprised if their reader base bought much. I have a feeling that after this season a lot of it will go on deep discount.

This might be my last post in the thread for a little bit, I'm moving to Nagoya next week and I've been feeling kinda moody (but also really excited and nervous). I started a tumblog and I'll post that in the travel thread so check that out maybe. I'll try to keep this thread updated but we'll see.

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Quick little Nagoya update. I'm still figuring things out but I went to a tooooon of stores yesterday, including Blowz, Kind, Undercover, Shellac, Tremolo and more







I'm adding more blurry pictures n stuff. czech it out: http://travels-in-constants.tumblr.com/