Watched the documentary
Useless by the chinese film maker Jia Zhangke. The film follows three interwoven sections of the Chinese fashion industry: a garment factory in Guandong, where workers make clothing for the label Exception by Mixmimd, the work of Chinese designer Ma Ke, who designs Exception but is working on presenting her high fashion label Wuyong in Paris, and three tailors in a rural Chinese mining town.
The documentary doesn’t make any kind of explicit claims and there are relatively few talking heads, but the different threads did make me consider the relationship between the different areas of the fashion industry ~ the factory labour which is required to sell the mass market Exception, whose the profits are needed to fund the high fashion Wuyong, whose philosophy is based on an idea of authenticity derived from traditional practices and relationships, but which is part of an economic system that is undercutting the viability of the very tailors that Wuyong's philosophy romanticizes.
The film isn't simply critical of Ma Ke and Wuyong. Her show in Paris is really beautiful, and the camera is in love with the textures of her clothing. And there’s an interesting affinity between the Jia Zhangke and Ma Ke, who both rely on funding from financial sources often at odds with the artist’s values, and whose works is received by an audience mostly outside China, whether that's at Paris Fashion Week or the Venice Film Festival (where Jia Zhangke has won multiple awards).
The film seems to me to be not just an examination of the Chinese garment industry, but a story about China and its modernisation. The fashion industry serves as the lens through which to view the relations between new and the old, wealthy and the poor, the city and the country, the changing habits and tastes of the ‘new’ China, its relationship to the West and the artist's place in all this. After Notebooks on Cities and Clothes and Paris is Burning, this is one of the best films that I’ve seen about clothing.
In 2008 ~ worth checking out.